It's the Bees Knees!
Notes from the Field
Bees Knees Blog
Leaving the Pitons behind!
April 17, 2009
Friday
Our last few days in St. Lucia...................
The last sunset, between the Pitons, in St. Lucia....what would be your worst nightmare? Yes.....a huge cruise ship,
Serenade of the Seas, decided to motor directly into the middle of the bay, do a 360 (so all their guests could see the sunset) and conveniently block
the sunset for the entire anchorage and the ritzy Jalousie resort between the Pitons! Jim hailed the ship, but was given a curt reply and "have a nice sail" from the captain. Emails will follow!!!!
But, in spite of the huge block of a ship, the sunset, after the sunset, was beautiful!
The following morning, the 16th, we were able to motorsail South with the main up, just 30 degrees off the wind...but the seas had calmed down and the wind was only 16-18, instead of the 26K gusts we were seeing on the previous attempt! We decided to continue on to The Maria Islands, which are on the SE corner of St. Lucia. It was reported by Don Street in a "Cruising World" article that "it looks nice". So....we decided to check it out! 
Entering between the reefs was not difficult, the reefs were very easy to see with breaking waves over the portside and the island on the starboard. It was a beautiful anchorage with a beach on Maria Island on the N side and a view of Vieux Fort and the airport N of the anchorage. 
There was a bit of a swell when we first arrived, but the water was blue and clear. We spent one of the rolliest nights ever in that anchorage (still not as bad as Statia last year) with swells hitting us in two directions. By the time we awoke the next AM, DIGNITY was gone and we followed shortly thereafter!
Maria Island is a bird sanctuary....so not only were there swells, but alot of bird noise as they screeched overhead and along the islands!
We motored around the S end of St. Lucia 
and went to the nice, flat anchorage off of Vieux Fort, St. Lucia. 
We checked out at Customs for departure on the 18th....which was conveniently located at the port, right where we anchored. But....we needed to go to the airport to check out with immigration....which was alot closer to the anchorage at Maria Island!!! But, we made a day of it! We met Helen and Steve (DIGNITY) at the docks.....and also were met by a bunch of local kids...just curious about our dinghy and our activity. Steve shared candy with them...and off we went......on our hike to the airport.
Vieux Fort was very busy that Friday morning....alot of activity in the streets. There were fish vendors, fresh fruits and vege stands and alot of little shops with people and cars darting all over. Once again, the people were very friendly as we passed thru their town, turning down offers to hire a taxi. This way we get exercise and get to greet the people! Jim and Steve couldn't pass up a little trailer with a woman offering chicken rotis....so they got a couple and we sat in the shade, eating lunch and just relaxing. Then off to the airport....which was nice to finally reach due to the Air conditioning!!! Whoohoo! We were followed by the same taxi driver....who again asked us if we wanted a ride back....but we decided to walk in the scorching sun.....but had a great time, talking, walking...then stopping at the grocery store to gather, once again, more food! After the grocery store stop, we stopped at the vege market and got some green onions and carrots....then scored some fresh tuna for EC20....four steaks for about $8 US.
We decided to finally leave St. Lucia the following day and got an early start (for us) about 0700.
We were able to sail in about 10-12K of wind, about 60-90 degrees off the wind.....until the wind started to die. We started the engine twice to get thru some dead spots just on the NE side of St. Vincent
....but were able to sail again. We saw a couple of whales breaching way off to the East......but wasn't quick enough with the camera!! This area is full of pilot whales, but these were much larger than pilot whales. We also drug out fishing line...but only caught a small barracuda, while off soundings (deeper than 200').....but nothing else. We made it to Baliceaux, an island on the SE side of Bequia, by sunset. 
DIGNITY anchored on the NW side of the island, close in....and we continued on a little further South and pulled in between two reefs, anchored near a beach.
The next AM we kayaked to shore to walk on the dry, desert-like land....just to explore a little. Not much there other than big cows....so we kayaked back and prepared to leave. The anchorage was, once again, a bit rolly from the swell coming around the S end of the island. We sailed under headsail and reefed main around the N end of Bequia
and down the East coast to Admiralty Bay. As we were approaching, under sail, a man in a dinghy came by taking pictures and would whistle when he was ready to shoot! (He later brought by a framed picture of us under sail....ours for $65 US!!!! It was $50 US just for the file!!!! So....we opted NOT!)
So....we'll spend the next few days in Bequia
then move on to the South and other Grenadine Islands!
Bye for now!
Friday
Our last few days in St. Lucia...................
The last sunset, between the Pitons, in St. Lucia....what would be your worst nightmare? Yes.....a huge cruise ship,
Serenade of the Seas, decided to motor directly into the middle of the bay, do a 360 (so all their guests could see the sunset) and conveniently block the sunset for the entire anchorage and the ritzy Jalousie resort between the Pitons! Jim hailed the ship, but was given a curt reply and "have a nice sail" from the captain. Emails will follow!!!!But, in spite of the huge block of a ship, the sunset, after the sunset, was beautiful!
The following morning, the 16th, we were able to motorsail South with the main up, just 30 degrees off the wind...but the seas had calmed down and the wind was only 16-18, instead of the 26K gusts we were seeing on the previous attempt! We decided to continue on to The Maria Islands, which are on the SE corner of St. Lucia. It was reported by Don Street in a "Cruising World" article that "it looks nice". So....we decided to check it out! Entering between the reefs was not difficult, the reefs were very easy to see with breaking waves over the portside and the island on the starboard. It was a beautiful anchorage with a beach on Maria Island on the N side and a view of Vieux Fort and the airport N of the anchorage. There was a bit of a swell when we first arrived, but the water was blue and clear. We spent one of the rolliest nights ever in that anchorage (still not as bad as Statia last year) with swells hitting us in two directions. By the time we awoke the next AM, DIGNITY was gone and we followed shortly thereafter!Maria Island is a bird sanctuary....so not only were there swells, but alot of bird noise as they screeched overhead and along the islands!
We motored around the S end of St. Lucia and went to the nice, flat anchorage off of Vieux Fort, St. Lucia. We checked out at Customs for departure on the 18th....which was conveniently located at the port, right where we anchored. But....we needed to go to the airport to check out with immigration....which was alot closer to the anchorage at Maria Island!!! But, we made a day of it! We met Helen and Steve (DIGNITY) at the docks.....and also were met by a bunch of local kids...just curious about our dinghy and our activity. Steve shared candy with them...and off we went......on our hike to the airport. Vieux Fort was very busy that Friday morning....alot of activity in the streets. There were fish vendors, fresh fruits and vege stands and alot of little shops with people and cars darting all over. Once again, the people were very friendly as we passed thru their town, turning down offers to hire a taxi. This way we get exercise and get to greet the people! Jim and Steve couldn't pass up a little trailer with a woman offering chicken rotis....so they got a couple and we sat in the shade, eating lunch and just relaxing. Then off to the airport....which was nice to finally reach due to the Air conditioning!!! Whoohoo! We were followed by the same taxi driver....who again asked us if we wanted a ride back....but we decided to walk in the scorching sun.....but had a great time, talking, walking...then stopping at the grocery store to gather, once again, more food! After the grocery store stop, we stopped at the vege market and got some green onions and carrots....then scored some fresh tuna for EC20....four steaks for about $8 US.
We decided to finally leave St. Lucia the following day and got an early start (for us) about 0700.
We were able to sail in about 10-12K of wind, about 60-90 degrees off the wind.....until the wind started to die. We started the engine twice to get thru some dead spots just on the NE side of St. Vincent....but were able to sail again. We saw a couple of whales breaching way off to the East......but wasn't quick enough with the camera!! This area is full of pilot whales, but these were much larger than pilot whales. We also drug out fishing line...but only caught a small barracuda, while off soundings (deeper than 200').....but nothing else. We made it to Baliceaux, an island on the SE side of Bequia, by sunset. DIGNITY anchored on the NW side of the island, close in....and we continued on a little further South and pulled in between two reefs, anchored near a beach. The next AM we kayaked to shore to walk on the dry, desert-like land....just to explore a little. Not much there other than big cows....so we kayaked back and prepared to leave. The anchorage was, once again, a bit rolly from the swell coming around the S end of the island. We sailed under headsail and reefed main around the N end of Bequia
and down the East coast to Admiralty Bay. As we were approaching, under sail, a man in a dinghy came by taking pictures and would whistle when he was ready to shoot! (He later brought by a framed picture of us under sail....ours for $65 US!!!! It was $50 US just for the file!!!! So....we opted NOT!)So....we'll spend the next few days in Bequia
then move on to the South and other Grenadine Islands!Bye for now!
Maximum Chill in St. Lucia!
April 15, 2009
Wednesday
Soufriere, St. Lucia (between the Pitons)
Well....hope everyone has their TAXES done!!!!! If not...it might be too late!! You'd think being out of the country would make it more difficult to be on time....but since you can do Federal online...ours are done! The State ones are hopefully at their destination....mailed from Castries, St. Lucia, last week!
Had another great sail from Martinique to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, on Monday, April 6th.
We were kinda pinching into the wind, but could sail the whole way to the South end of Rodney Bay...then dropped sails and motored in to anchor. It was 
surprising to see all the resorts along the beach and, once again, the number of cruising boats anchored in the Bay! The Bay is protected from the wind and sea by a Fort and National Park on the North end. There is a huge Sandals resort here and people waterskiing and sailing and zooming by in motorboats all day long!! But....the nice thing is easy access to grocery stores, fruit delivered to your boat by the "flag man"
and hardware stores for, once again, supplying Bees Knees!
We were soooo happy to finally catch up with DIGNITY!!
They are friends that we met in St. Martin in December...and they sailed away with their family aboard after Christmas. We've been trying to catch them ever since.....in our slow cruiser way! So....we were graciously invited for pizza and drinks and much "talking" to catch up on everything! It was a great time and great to find out we'll probably see each other the rest of the way down the island chain. So....if you want to check out their blog to see them and occasionally our pictures.....go to aboarddignity.com/blog. Actually we think you'll see more pictures of us there than what we take!!!!
On Wednesday, the 8th, after the huge rain shower, we hopped in the dinghy, picked up Helen and Steve from DIGNITY and zoomed into the dinghy dock. We hopped on a local bus that took us to the capital city of St. Lucia, Castries, to go to the "largest fresh market in the Eastern Caribbean". Of course, I don't have many pictures of that day because it was raining off and on and my camera isn't waterproof! But....the locals wear the madras dresses and head scarves and sell the most wonderful fresh veges for great prices. We all were lured by a sweet woman calling to us to "come closer" to eat lunch at her little cafe just on the side of the market. We had lunch of huge rotis....vegetable or chicken, and of course I had the local beer, Piton. After lunch we walked around the town, walking thru huge shops of hardware and kitchen goods, clothes and just about anything else you could throw into a small space....and every store seemed to have the same merchandise. There seemed to be about three of these stores on every block! Alot of STUFF!
We also visited the local Catholic Church
that had a wooden roof that was over 100 years old with faded paintings, walls with stained glass in bright Caribbean colors and a very decorative altar! Most of the people in the Church were taking pictures!
The bus ride was one of the more serene bus rides we've taken on the islands.....no big hills or corners to zoom around! So...we made it home safely and somehow avoided most of the rain showers!
The following day we hiked to Fort Rodney on the North end of Rodney Bay.
It was just a short walk up the path and the hill to the top, but the views were beautiful.
There was a "pirate ship" coming in to the harbor and a local started shooting a canon at them (almost real!!)
.....then they hoisted the white surrender flag after two shots over the bow. We booed....wanting more action...but that was it!!
On Friday Jim and I made our trip to the grocery store and were ready to leave this busy harbor.
We sailed South to Anse LaRaye on Saturday....a real short trip. about 7nm...and anchored with only one other cruising boat in a little fishing village.
On Easter Sunday we decided to walk thru the little village of Anse LaRaye and visit a small waterfall just outside of town. We were met on the beach by a local that helped us pull our dinghy way up on the beach....then "for a little something" he'd watch our dinghy!! We gave him a little something and watched him walk down the beach....never to be seen again!!
The town was busy with people all over the streets and on the porches or sidewalks. Another local Rasta came along and started to give us a tour with a history of the town, encouraging us to come to the "party" that evening. We asked the way to the waterfall and he told us just to keep walking out of town to the South. So....off we went...on another adventure.
This time it wasn't so far and not so steep....plus the road was paved! We met another couple of guys that gave us great directions to the start of the path to the waterfall. We saw them again up the road washing their car near the river. The walk was nice and the waterfall, Bois de Nave, was pretty. 
Not as impressive as Victoria Falls or Sari Sari on Dominica, but very pretty and relaxing.
The walk home was the same path....once again many friendly people in the town as we walked through. When we got back to Bees Knees and were preparing to leave, we heard voices outside! There were four local boys hanging on to our dinghy....one had a pool noodle, one an inflatable ring, another had a piece of plywood and the other kid was now lying on the side of the dinghy! They were laughing and talking with us....trying to figure out what we were doing, getting introduced to "Scootie" our cockatiel
, asking if we had kids, then asking for cookies! We gave them a couple of cookies each then decided to get going. Jim offered to give them a ride on the dinghy as we were pulling up the anchor....so they all climbed into the dinghy and as we pulled up the anchor they rode along.....then jumped when Jim said "Jump!" They were all laughing and saying thanks for the ride and "see you next time!"
We pulled the jib out to sail South down the coast until we got to Canaries, St. Lucia....where the wind died and we motored the rest of the way in to Soufriere, St. Lucia. We really wanted to moor between the Pitons,
but it was full....so we joined DIGNITY and moored on the N end of the bay near the "bat cave".
The next morning Jim and Steve went in to the dock to try to find a tour guide to take us up Gros Piton....for a reasonable price. They weren't successful! They were asking too much....$500 US!!!!! for 4 of us!!!! So....sadly we thought we'd never get to hike the Pitons. But....shortly after that a three local boat boys came by and heard about our dilemma (everything you do is known!!) and they offered to take us, including the ride to the base of the mountain, for $200 US for all four of us....and we added a little more for the tip. Sooooooo GREAT!!
We were picked up about 30 minutes later at our boat....as we were rushing to get into their boat, one of the guys said...."Hey, Maximum Chill...take your time" Then we zoomed over to pick up DIGNITY and then zoomed to the beach to start our hike. Our tour guide was Marlon Travis Birdie and he brought along his dog
....never did have a name, so we named him Piton, or Piti!! When Jim and I hike.....we walk a bit, look around, take pictures, and enjoy the views. But we found that when you're with a tour guide.....you're on an agenda....to get to the top, have lunch...then come back down. No dilly dallying around!!!! So....it was a climb
....from sea level to 2691 feet! But the path was well laid out with handrails and some ladders as needed. So, not so tough, but faster than we normally go! We passed quite a few people on the way up...both going up and down...alot of local St. Lucians doing the hike....some for the first time! Our guide was great, did the hike barefooted with a bottle of water stuck in his back pocket! When we got to the top we stopped for lunch 
and shared our with Marlon and, of course, the little dog. After lunch there was an updraft of the clouds,
rising from below us and covering the view over the bay! It was amazing!! There was a second view from the top, overlooking the SE part of the island. 
We stopped there....then found that our "ride" was going to pick us up in 20 minutes at the bottom of the mountain!!! So....off we went, scurrying
down the mountain (Not sure what happened to the Maximum Chill aspect!)....alot easier going down, but alot harder on the ol' knees! But....luckily we made it all in one piece and were conveniently dropped off at our boats!
The funny thing.....we ran out of gas after they dropped off DIGNITY....and they had to hail another local boat to come by and pour gasoline into the boat we were on! It was no problem...they all work together! So...we made it back to Bees Knees safely! Only to find out that someone had taken gasoline out of our dinghy tank while we were gone! Our dinghy was locked alongside of our boat....and the can was locked in the dinghy....but they were able to pick up the tank and pour out the gas!! Live and learn!!!
Yesterday, Tuesday, the 14th, we decided to head South with DIGNITY, to make our way to the SE side of St. Lucia. DIGNITY left about 2 hours before we did and when we headed out we were seeing winds gusting to 28K, on the nose!! So, after about 20 minutes we decided to turn around and sail over 6K downwind back to the moorings between the Pitons.
We radioed DIGNITY and told them of our plans, but they were nearly at Laborie and decided to keep going. So, we'll meet up with them again soon.
When we arrived back to the mooring we were met by another "boat boy" who we'd seen earlier in the day. After we secured Bees Knees to the mooring ball, we invited Joel aboard, offered him a beer and talked for a bit. We arranged to have our laundry done....he negotiated a fair deal with us...and off he went with our two bags of laundry. After he left....the Marine Park guy came by....we arranged with him to have our scuba tanks refilled for the best price yet....$5 US each or 25EC.....and off he went with our tanks!!
Had a great night between the Pitons with a zillion stars up above and the Pitons hovering on either side!
This AM.....our laundry was delivered (cleaned, dried and folded) for 120EC or 30EC per load...about $11-12/load. Not a bad price for the islands.....plus delivery! The marine park man came by shortly afterward with our tanks! Now we just have to wait for the wind to calm down and we can head South again!! Maybe tomorrow or Friday. We're checked into the country, St. Lucia, until the 20th.
Bye for now!
Wednesday
Soufriere, St. Lucia (between the Pitons)
Well....hope everyone has their TAXES done!!!!! If not...it might be too late!! You'd think being out of the country would make it more difficult to be on time....but since you can do Federal online...ours are done! The State ones are hopefully at their destination....mailed from Castries, St. Lucia, last week!
Had another great sail from Martinique to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, on Monday, April 6th.
We were kinda pinching into the wind, but could sail the whole way to the South end of Rodney Bay...then dropped sails and motored in to anchor. It was surprising to see all the resorts along the beach and, once again, the number of cruising boats anchored in the Bay! The Bay is protected from the wind and sea by a Fort and National Park on the North end. There is a huge Sandals resort here and people waterskiing and sailing and zooming by in motorboats all day long!! But....the nice thing is easy access to grocery stores, fruit delivered to your boat by the "flag man" and hardware stores for, once again, supplying Bees Knees!We were soooo happy to finally catch up with DIGNITY!!
They are friends that we met in St. Martin in December...and they sailed away with their family aboard after Christmas. We've been trying to catch them ever since.....in our slow cruiser way! So....we were graciously invited for pizza and drinks and much "talking" to catch up on everything! It was a great time and great to find out we'll probably see each other the rest of the way down the island chain. So....if you want to check out their blog to see them and occasionally our pictures.....go to aboarddignity.com/blog. Actually we think you'll see more pictures of us there than what we take!!!!On Wednesday, the 8th, after the huge rain shower, we hopped in the dinghy, picked up Helen and Steve from DIGNITY and zoomed into the dinghy dock. We hopped on a local bus that took us to the capital city of St. Lucia, Castries, to go to the "largest fresh market in the Eastern Caribbean". Of course, I don't have many pictures of that day because it was raining off and on and my camera isn't waterproof! But....the locals wear the madras dresses and head scarves and sell the most wonderful fresh veges for great prices. We all were lured by a sweet woman calling to us to "come closer" to eat lunch at her little cafe just on the side of the market. We had lunch of huge rotis....vegetable or chicken, and of course I had the local beer, Piton. After lunch we walked around the town, walking thru huge shops of hardware and kitchen goods, clothes and just about anything else you could throw into a small space....and every store seemed to have the same merchandise. There seemed to be about three of these stores on every block! Alot of STUFF!
We also visited the local Catholic Church
that had a wooden roof that was over 100 years old with faded paintings, walls with stained glass in bright Caribbean colors and a very decorative altar! Most of the people in the Church were taking pictures!The bus ride was one of the more serene bus rides we've taken on the islands.....no big hills or corners to zoom around! So...we made it home safely and somehow avoided most of the rain showers!
The following day we hiked to Fort Rodney on the North end of Rodney Bay.
It was just a short walk up the path and the hill to the top, but the views were beautiful. There was a "pirate ship" coming in to the harbor and a local started shooting a canon at them (almost real!!).....then they hoisted the white surrender flag after two shots over the bow. We booed....wanting more action...but that was it!!On Friday Jim and I made our trip to the grocery store and were ready to leave this busy harbor.
We sailed South to Anse LaRaye on Saturday....a real short trip. about 7nm...and anchored with only one other cruising boat in a little fishing village.
On Easter Sunday we decided to walk thru the little village of Anse LaRaye and visit a small waterfall just outside of town. We were met on the beach by a local that helped us pull our dinghy way up on the beach....then "for a little something" he'd watch our dinghy!! We gave him a little something and watched him walk down the beach....never to be seen again!! The town was busy with people all over the streets and on the porches or sidewalks. Another local Rasta came along and started to give us a tour with a history of the town, encouraging us to come to the "party" that evening. We asked the way to the waterfall and he told us just to keep walking out of town to the South. So....off we went...on another adventure.
This time it wasn't so far and not so steep....plus the road was paved! We met another couple of guys that gave us great directions to the start of the path to the waterfall. We saw them again up the road washing their car near the river. The walk was nice and the waterfall, Bois de Nave, was pretty. Not as impressive as Victoria Falls or Sari Sari on Dominica, but very pretty and relaxing. The walk home was the same path....once again many friendly people in the town as we walked through. When we got back to Bees Knees and were preparing to leave, we heard voices outside! There were four local boys hanging on to our dinghy....one had a pool noodle, one an inflatable ring, another had a piece of plywood and the other kid was now lying on the side of the dinghy! They were laughing and talking with us....trying to figure out what we were doing, getting introduced to "Scootie" our cockatiel
, asking if we had kids, then asking for cookies! We gave them a couple of cookies each then decided to get going. Jim offered to give them a ride on the dinghy as we were pulling up the anchor....so they all climbed into the dinghy and as we pulled up the anchor they rode along.....then jumped when Jim said "Jump!" They were all laughing and saying thanks for the ride and "see you next time!"We pulled the jib out to sail South down the coast until we got to Canaries, St. Lucia....where the wind died and we motored the rest of the way in to Soufriere, St. Lucia. We really wanted to moor between the Pitons,
but it was full....so we joined DIGNITY and moored on the N end of the bay near the "bat cave".The next morning Jim and Steve went in to the dock to try to find a tour guide to take us up Gros Piton....for a reasonable price. They weren't successful! They were asking too much....$500 US!!!!! for 4 of us!!!! So....sadly we thought we'd never get to hike the Pitons. But....shortly after that a three local boat boys came by and heard about our dilemma (everything you do is known!!) and they offered to take us, including the ride to the base of the mountain, for $200 US for all four of us....and we added a little more for the tip. Sooooooo GREAT!!
We were picked up about 30 minutes later at our boat....as we were rushing to get into their boat, one of the guys said...."Hey, Maximum Chill...take your time" Then we zoomed over to pick up DIGNITY and then zoomed to the beach to start our hike. Our tour guide was Marlon Travis Birdie and he brought along his dog
....never did have a name, so we named him Piton, or Piti!! When Jim and I hike.....we walk a bit, look around, take pictures, and enjoy the views. But we found that when you're with a tour guide.....you're on an agenda....to get to the top, have lunch...then come back down. No dilly dallying around!!!! So....it was a climb....from sea level to 2691 feet! But the path was well laid out with handrails and some ladders as needed. So, not so tough, but faster than we normally go! We passed quite a few people on the way up...both going up and down...alot of local St. Lucians doing the hike....some for the first time! Our guide was great, did the hike barefooted with a bottle of water stuck in his back pocket! When we got to the top we stopped for lunch and shared our with Marlon and, of course, the little dog. After lunch there was an updraft of the clouds, rising from below us and covering the view over the bay! It was amazing!! There was a second view from the top, overlooking the SE part of the island. We stopped there....then found that our "ride" was going to pick us up in 20 minutes at the bottom of the mountain!!! So....off we went, scurrying down the mountain (Not sure what happened to the Maximum Chill aspect!)....alot easier going down, but alot harder on the ol' knees! But....luckily we made it all in one piece and were conveniently dropped off at our boats!The funny thing.....we ran out of gas after they dropped off DIGNITY....and they had to hail another local boat to come by and pour gasoline into the boat we were on! It was no problem...they all work together! So...we made it back to Bees Knees safely! Only to find out that someone had taken gasoline out of our dinghy tank while we were gone! Our dinghy was locked alongside of our boat....and the can was locked in the dinghy....but they were able to pick up the tank and pour out the gas!! Live and learn!!!
Yesterday, Tuesday, the 14th, we decided to head South with DIGNITY, to make our way to the SE side of St. Lucia. DIGNITY left about 2 hours before we did and when we headed out we were seeing winds gusting to 28K, on the nose!! So, after about 20 minutes we decided to turn around and sail over 6K downwind back to the moorings between the Pitons.
We radioed DIGNITY and told them of our plans, but they were nearly at Laborie and decided to keep going. So, we'll meet up with them again soon.When we arrived back to the mooring we were met by another "boat boy" who we'd seen earlier in the day. After we secured Bees Knees to the mooring ball, we invited Joel aboard, offered him a beer and talked for a bit. We arranged to have our laundry done....he negotiated a fair deal with us...and off he went with our two bags of laundry. After he left....the Marine Park guy came by....we arranged with him to have our scuba tanks refilled for the best price yet....$5 US each or 25EC.....and off he went with our tanks!!
Had a great night between the Pitons with a zillion stars up above and the Pitons hovering on either side!
This AM.....our laundry was delivered (cleaned, dried and folded) for 120EC or 30EC per load...about $11-12/load. Not a bad price for the islands.....plus delivery! The marine park man came by shortly afterward with our tanks! Now we just have to wait for the wind to calm down and we can head South again!! Maybe tomorrow or Friday. We're checked into the country, St. Lucia, until the 20th.
Bye for now!
Bonjour and Au Revoir Martinique!
April 6, 2009
Monday
We arrived in Fort de France, Martinique, on Friday, March 27, 2009.
We had another great sail....about 20K, beam reach and sailed right into Baie Des Flamandes, dropped the sails and motored into the anchorage. It was quite a shock coming around the corner and seeing a "city" and a zillion boats anchored there!!!! It made us miss Dominica even more!!
We checked in to Customs the following day. It's quite different here in France.....all we had to do is go to the local chandlery, sit at a computer and fill out the forms...then a clerk just stamps and signs them. Doesn't sound very official, but it works!
I carry around the "French for Cruisers" book by Kathy Parson, just in case I have to try to speak the language. But Jim can get us by with his high school French....plus he always first tells them he doesn't speak French, in French!! So...people really seem to be very tolerant if we at least try!
We really just provisioned and relaxed in Fort de France.
It's a big city with real live grocery stores, a mall, alot of clothing and lingerie stores, and the local fresh market. We walked around the city and found the fresh bakery and the cheap wine store!! I stocked up for the remainder of our cruising season this year (I hope!!) We did find a beautiful library in downtown Fort de France, the Schoelcher Library,
named after Victor Schoelcher that was an anti-slavery advocate, according to the Doyle guidebook. The library was constructed of metal, riveted together after being shipped from Paris. Jim and I walked in to peruse the old books and I was suprised to see so many authors that I recognized with their books translated into French!
We passed the local school and there was a huge wall with a mural carved on it with the history of slavery and the abolishment. I took several pictures....it was really impressive.
We walked up the road toward the distillery, passing all the French homes on one side with sugar cane and flowers on the other. Again just beautiful flowers and saw the cutest pink pineapple growing off a long stalk! 
At the entrance to the distillery there was a huge Baobob tree (my favorite)! The first one we ever saw was in the British Virgin Islands on Salt Island. They are so large and old looking!
The grounds of the Depaz rum distillery are just beautiful!
We walked up the long drive to the office where we were hoping to have "free tastings" after our long walk....all uphill!! But....alas....they were closed for inventory!!!! Luckily the restaurant was open and we decided to treat ourselves to lunch and a rum punch!! 
Jim, the official spaker of French, ordered for us and got us through the menu, and all was very good. While we were eating....a group of four came in (obviously not French and obviously cruisers)...and they had to have an interpreter come over from another table to order!! The waitress just smiled at Jim. The lunch was excellent and we limited ourselves to only one rum punch....knowing we were going to walk back down the road to St. Pierre! After lunch we walked around and took the self-guided tour. They had arrows and plaques telling you the process of making the rum. I really liked the artwork....they painted scenes on the oak barrel lids and had them hanging on the walls. Luckily the gift shop was closed or we might have one hanging on Bees Knees!!!
We walked back down the road into St. Pierre
...and just as we were approaching, a taxi came by and picked us up to take us back to Fort de France...about 10 miles up and down the road! The following day we went to the fresh market in town....picking up green onions, pineapple, grapefruit, canteloupe, green beans, potatoes and fresh vanilla beans with a cocoa stick. Bees Knees never smelled soooo good with that fresh vanilla smell just filling up the boat!! After getting all of that back aboard, we headed out to the local supermarket for our other provisions and more wine!
After we got all our provisions put away, we were ready to move on to another anchorage....a little more quiet and less rolly. The anchorage at Fort de France is well protected, but the ferry service is non-stop all day and they leave the biggest wakes where we pound up and down! So....we lifted our anchor and hoisted our jib and sailed off with the wind abaft of beam....down to Grand Anse D'Arlet....about 5nm only...on the SE side of Martinique.
We arrived in Grand Anse D'Arlet on April Fool's Day.....no kidding!
Really didn't do much here other than swim and relax....took a few walks around the small town....tried to find WIFI in a little cafe. I cleaned the waterline of Bees Knees while Jim took the dinghy ashore to clean the growth off the bottom! Things are starting to grow!! The interesting thing about this little harbor are the 3 large sailboats that are "careened" up on the rocks along the shoreline! Really makes you want to check your anchor after it's set!!!!
We attempted to leave on Saturday, the 4th, but as we rounded the SE corner of Martinique, the wave size increased and the wind increased to about 22K...and we were just trying to go about 12 nm to St. Anne, but it would have been slogging right into it....so we turned around and went back to the same anchorage at Grande Anse D'Arlet.
So, who cares if we spend another couple of days in a beautiful anchorage???
Today we are heading to St. Lucia.....leaving Martinique, the last French island that we'll visit for a long time! Hope the wine holds out!! Au Revoir!
Monday
We arrived in Fort de France, Martinique, on Friday, March 27, 2009.
We had another great sail....about 20K, beam reach and sailed right into Baie Des Flamandes, dropped the sails and motored into the anchorage. It was quite a shock coming around the corner and seeing a "city" and a zillion boats anchored there!!!! It made us miss Dominica even more!!We checked in to Customs the following day. It's quite different here in France.....all we had to do is go to the local chandlery, sit at a computer and fill out the forms...then a clerk just stamps and signs them. Doesn't sound very official, but it works!
I carry around the "French for Cruisers" book by Kathy Parson, just in case I have to try to speak the language. But Jim can get us by with his high school French....plus he always first tells them he doesn't speak French, in French!! So...people really seem to be very tolerant if we at least try!
We really just provisioned and relaxed in Fort de France.
It's a big city with real live grocery stores, a mall, alot of clothing and lingerie stores, and the local fresh market. We walked around the city and found the fresh bakery and the cheap wine store!! I stocked up for the remainder of our cruising season this year (I hope!!) We did find a beautiful library in downtown Fort de France, the Schoelcher Library, named after Victor Schoelcher that was an anti-slavery advocate, according to the Doyle guidebook. The library was constructed of metal, riveted together after being shipped from Paris. Jim and I walked in to peruse the old books and I was suprised to see so many authors that I recognized with their books translated into French!On Tuesday, March 31st, we decided to hop on the local bus and ride North to the town of St. Pierre.
St. Pierre lies at the foot of Mt. Pelee
....a volcano that erupted in 1902 and wiped out the entire town....a population of 30,000 (according to our Doyle guidebook). So, it's a very historic town with alot of ruins still remaining. But they also have a distillery just a short walk out of town. The bus ride, again, was a blast.....the only non-locals aboard and the bus driver zooming around the winding road up and down the mountain. Just a riot. The island bus drivers have to be the best drivers around....other than probably NY taxi drivers!! We were dropped off in St. Pierre and walked around the town for a short while. We picked up some local pastries and went to the town park and sat in the shade. Then we decided to walk the "2 kilometer" hike to the distillery....directed by a local shop owner. 
St. Pierre lies at the foot of Mt. Pelee....a volcano that erupted in 1902 and wiped out the entire town....a population of 30,000 (according to our Doyle guidebook). So, it's a very historic town with alot of ruins still remaining. But they also have a distillery just a short walk out of town. The bus ride, again, was a blast.....the only non-locals aboard and the bus driver zooming around the winding road up and down the mountain. Just a riot. The island bus drivers have to be the best drivers around....other than probably NY taxi drivers!! We were dropped off in St. Pierre and walked around the town for a short while. We picked up some local pastries and went to the town park and sat in the shade. Then we decided to walk the "2 kilometer" hike to the distillery....directed by a local shop owner. We passed the local school and there was a huge wall with a mural carved on it with the history of slavery and the abolishment. I took several pictures....it was really impressive.
We walked up the road toward the distillery, passing all the French homes on one side with sugar cane and flowers on the other. Again just beautiful flowers and saw the cutest pink pineapple growing off a long stalk! At the entrance to the distillery there was a huge Baobob tree (my favorite)! The first one we ever saw was in the British Virgin Islands on Salt Island. They are so large and old looking!The grounds of the Depaz rum distillery are just beautiful!
We walked up the long drive to the office where we were hoping to have "free tastings" after our long walk....all uphill!! But....alas....they were closed for inventory!!!! Luckily the restaurant was open and we decided to treat ourselves to lunch and a rum punch!! Jim, the official spaker of French, ordered for us and got us through the menu, and all was very good. While we were eating....a group of four came in (obviously not French and obviously cruisers)...and they had to have an interpreter come over from another table to order!! The waitress just smiled at Jim. The lunch was excellent and we limited ourselves to only one rum punch....knowing we were going to walk back down the road to St. Pierre! After lunch we walked around and took the self-guided tour. They had arrows and plaques telling you the process of making the rum. I really liked the artwork....they painted scenes on the oak barrel lids and had them hanging on the walls. Luckily the gift shop was closed or we might have one hanging on Bees Knees!!!We walked back down the road into St. Pierre
...and just as we were approaching, a taxi came by and picked us up to take us back to Fort de France...about 10 miles up and down the road! The following day we went to the fresh market in town....picking up green onions, pineapple, grapefruit, canteloupe, green beans, potatoes and fresh vanilla beans with a cocoa stick. Bees Knees never smelled soooo good with that fresh vanilla smell just filling up the boat!! After getting all of that back aboard, we headed out to the local supermarket for our other provisions and more wine! After we got all our provisions put away, we were ready to move on to another anchorage....a little more quiet and less rolly. The anchorage at Fort de France is well protected, but the ferry service is non-stop all day and they leave the biggest wakes where we pound up and down! So....we lifted our anchor and hoisted our jib and sailed off with the wind abaft of beam....down to Grand Anse D'Arlet....about 5nm only...on the SE side of Martinique.
We arrived in Grand Anse D'Arlet on April Fool's Day.....no kidding!
Really didn't do much here other than swim and relax....took a few walks around the small town....tried to find WIFI in a little cafe. I cleaned the waterline of Bees Knees while Jim took the dinghy ashore to clean the growth off the bottom! Things are starting to grow!! The interesting thing about this little harbor are the 3 large sailboats that are "careened" up on the rocks along the shoreline! Really makes you want to check your anchor after it's set!!!!We attempted to leave on Saturday, the 4th, but as we rounded the SE corner of Martinique, the wave size increased and the wind increased to about 22K...and we were just trying to go about 12 nm to St. Anne, but it would have been slogging right into it....so we turned around and went back to the same anchorage at Grande Anse D'Arlet.
So, who cares if we spend another couple of days in a beautiful anchorage??? Today we are heading to St. Lucia.....leaving Martinique, the last French island that we'll visit for a long time! Hope the wine holds out!! Au Revoir!
Everything Good?
March 26, 2009
Thursday
In the last blog I mentioned a fun-filled night to be had....going to a local restaurant to hear a steal pan band!!! Well....the two Bees Knees and Beez Neez got together and walked thru town, Portsmouth, Dominica, to be at the Creole Italian restuarant, ADAJ, by 1830.....to listen to two high school girls play their 6-song repertoire on the steel pans right next to us. The "buffet" was one time through only...and jello or cake for dessert. So.....we couldn't really hear each other talk, so we ate, then went back to the local bar, Big Papas, and had a few drinks, laughs!
On Sunday nights in Portsmouth there is a BBQ dinner/jump up at Big Papas put on by the local boat boys and security network in the anchorage. It's only for the "yachties", as they call the combo of sailboaters, powerboaters, trawlers....and it's $50 EC each (about $18 US each) for a great BBQ of either chicken or mahi mahi, cole slaw, rice, green salad and all the rum drinks you could drink! So...we were in Portsmouth for two Sundays and went to both. The first BBQ we probably had just a little too much rum...so we really laid back on the next Sunday...but still had a blast.
We attempted to find Phillip...the nice local man that picked us up and drove 10 miles out of his way to the Capuchin Trail...but we were walking around the town of Portsmouth on Sunday and found his shop all locked up.
We sailed away from Portsmouth on Monday morning....sadly leaving behind a wonderful town and people. This is also where Beez Neez will head North as we head South....hopefully to meet up again in Grenada in the future.
We sailed about 7nm only....to arrive in Mero, Dominica,
and anchor in about 22' of clear blue water! We had visited Mero last May when we "blasted" thru the Leewards and Windwards....but stumbled on a great walk/hike just past the Macoucheri Estate rum distillery! We were unable to get a tour last year, no one was available...and we didn't have enough time to continue our walk as far as we wanted. So, Jim really wanted to go back and try to get a tour of the distillery! On Tuesday we rowed our dinghy ashore and pulled it far up on the beach, tied it to a tree, and took off on our hike....back to the distillery. Mero has a beautiful volcanic black sand beach
....so alot of the tours from the cruise ships visit this beach. The town is about 5 small blocks with the main road along the beach and the local bar open for the cruise ships tourists. There seemed to be alot of rebuilding going on...probably from the damage from the West hurricane, Omar, this past season. But, once again, the local people are so friendly, smiling and hard-working.
We walked about 1 1/2 miles to the beginning of the Macoucheri road....avoiding the zooming cars and trucks on the only road that runs along the West coast of Dominica. We stopped in the distillery, but the workers were too busy making rum, crushing the sugar cane, so they were not available for a tour.
So...it was about 1000 in the morning and they said maybe around 1330 they would be available for a tour....to just return around then! So....we took off on our "short" hike, which was about 2.5 miles according to the chart. But......we found that the chart was not quite accurate and the road continued to the top of the ridge....about a 9-10 mile hike round-trip!! 
The bad sign was when a 4-wheel truck passed us....then we saw them locking down their hubs....and went nearly straight up a hill that we were continuing up!!!! I was nearly pulling Jim up the hill, rounding the switchbacks.....until he saw the top of the ridge...then he wanted to keep going! Good thing we did......great views and just massive, acres and acres, of fruit trees and gardens. 
We met Victor, a local "gardener" (as they call themselves rather than farmers)....who went into his garden 2 days prior and had about 50# of tomatoes in a basket, waiting for a ride down. He wanted to offer us some "jelly nuts" (unripened coconuts that you scoop the jelly out of and eat)...but he said his garden is way back off the road and pointed to a narrow path between the banana trees, down a ridge and probably on to the next mountain! We talked with him at length....he was originally from Louisianna and spent some time in Florida before moving to Dominica (rare to meet someone that wasn't born in Dominica!!!) But....we continued our walk further down the road. We met a few other locals who seemed to be amazed that we were just walking from Mero...."for exercise"....and talking with the locals. Alot of workers just waved to us and yelled "all right"or "everything good?" (which is the Hello greeting here) as we walked by.
The landscape is just amazing.
There are acres and acres....as far as you can see....of trees, fruit, flowers, and plants. The beginning of the road was all sugar cane, coconut palms and watermelon fields
.....and after we reached the top there were gardens of passion fruit, more banana trees, orange and grapefruit trees, tomatoes, watermelon, dasheen, squash, papaya, green beans, peppers
and I'm sure a few we didn't identify! Just spectacular!!! In addition to all this beauty are the hummingbirds, bananaquits, small hawks flying overhead.....and a parrot that we saw flying down the valley!
By the time we got back down the mountain
and out onto the road to Mero, thru the village of Mero....we were ready to get back on Bees Knees and just collapse!! As we were walking back thru the little village of Mero......we were being hailed by someone...yelling and whistling....and we turned around and saw Victor walking rapidly toward us!! He just wanted to see that we made it back and to say HI again and point out where he lived in Mero! He said "next time you stop by Mero, now you can come and see me"!
We hoisted anchor that late afternoon and motored down to Rouseau
.....very light wind...about 5K, on the nose. But it was only another 7nm from Mero to Rouseau...and we arrived just before sunset. We were met once again by a boat boy, Lenny, from Poncho Services...in his wooden skiff...to lead us to a mooring ball to tie off to. We found that Poncho Services is also a tour service and will do anything for you that you need, including laundry! So....we arranged for a tour that we've been wanting to go on....but it's been too expensive to arrange from Portsmouth. We agreed on a price and we were to be ready at 0900 the following day for pick up from Bees Knees! What service!
We were whisked away from Bees Knees on the wooden skiff near 0900 on Wednesday...and jumped into a van with two other couples....from Canada and Slovenia! Mr. Jones was our driver and tour guide
....giving us a history of the island and pointing out several plants and trees along the drive....about 45 minutes to Victoria Falls...which is on the other side of the island. When we arrived at Victoria Falls....we all piled out of the van and took off thru the woods for our first hike to Victoria Falls. 
We crossed the river...about mid thigh height for me....knee high for Jim....then would climb along the rocks and cross the river again. Well....the Slovenian woman was as tall as me....and we had a little more difficulty making some of the long leg stretches reaching rocks....it was a riot!! At one point I gave her a boost and I think Jim did too! Great couple....her husband didn't speak any English...so just nodded and smiled alot! The Falls were beautiful...the lower part hit the rocks and it was such a beautiful display of water and the power!
But....we were not to dally.....off we went...back to the beginning of the trail where there was a "Rastarant"!
Just so happens that the owner/chef of the facility was family to our boat boy, Poncho! But....being a rasta man...Moses
made us the best vegetarian stew and served it in hard gourd shells with coconut shell slices as spoons! They were all smoking the local grown "seaweed", but the stew was just great!! He showed us his garden where he grew "herbe mal tete"(the cure for headaches and anything else that's ailing) and everything else that was in the stew, including three different kinds of basil. He then showed us the picture of him in "Islands" magazine, featuring Local faces of Dominica.....and there he was. He told us there were 5 centurions that lived in the next village and they attribute their long life to the "one pot meal" of vegetarian stew
....and of course the local rum! What an interesting guy!!
After lunch we drove for about 20 minutes to the next hike to Sari Sari Falls. This hike has been recommended by our good friend, Ed and Beep on MIDWATCH
, who'd been to Dominica a few years ago! So....we were so excited to finally be able to hike and see the falls! We took off thru a banana tree farm
with a cow just lying by...and we were on a muddy, steep path to the river. We only crossed this river a couple of times, but had to hike in the water, close to the edge, alot of the way. The Falls were more powerful and windier than Victoria Falls....and just gorgeous! 
The jungle atmosphere and the sound of the falls were something that I tried to capture and put away in my mind as one of those most peaceful moments!!
So....off we went back up the muddy trail...and back to the van. Mr. Jones drove us safely back to the other side of Dominica.....up and down the steep road and switchbacks....and, once again, we collapsed on Bees Knees. Jim and I had a great dinner of PB&J sandwiches that was leftover from our packed lunch!
Today is our last day in Dominica. It's really kinda heartbreaking....I really have enjoyed the people mostly...the scenery and the hikes. It's still my favorite island and if I had to live on the land.....I'd try to live here!
This morning we walked to the fresh market on the street of Rouseau...buying dasheen, pumpkin, onions, green onions, a pineapple, grapefruit and carrots! Then we hopped on a local bus for a short ride to the airport where we had arranged to pick up our mail and two boat items that we had ordered thru our mail service, St. Brendan's Isle. We found that easily....then walked back along the water to go to Customs to pick up our package. Then zoomed back to Bees Knees....dropped everything off and then dinghied back to the dock to go to the local grocery store for other ships stores. So....once that was accomplished we took all back to Bees Knees....then grabbed our computers and dinghied in to shore to have a beer and get free WIFI!!
So....that's what we do all day!!!
Funny thing that happened here.....the first night that Lenny and his partner showed us to the mooring and offered the trip to Sari Sari.....we offered them a cold beer.....two Presidentes from the DR. Well....word got out and they came back later for two more beers. This time I offered a Presidente and a Carib....but their faces almost fell out of the boat....so I took the Carib back and gave them another Presidente! (They make Carib and Kabouli beer here on the island). So...we saw them a couple times today, saying good-bye and thank you.....and on the way in to get the WIFI I brought along 2 of my treasured Bass Ale (I had 5 left).
We saw them zooming by....waved them over and gave them the "good-bye present" and said Good-bye once again to the nice people of Dominica!
Thursday
In the last blog I mentioned a fun-filled night to be had....going to a local restaurant to hear a steal pan band!!! Well....the two Bees Knees and Beez Neez got together and walked thru town, Portsmouth, Dominica, to be at the Creole Italian restuarant, ADAJ, by 1830.....to listen to two high school girls play their 6-song repertoire on the steel pans right next to us. The "buffet" was one time through only...and jello or cake for dessert. So.....we couldn't really hear each other talk, so we ate, then went back to the local bar, Big Papas, and had a few drinks, laughs!
On Sunday nights in Portsmouth there is a BBQ dinner/jump up at Big Papas put on by the local boat boys and security network in the anchorage. It's only for the "yachties", as they call the combo of sailboaters, powerboaters, trawlers....and it's $50 EC each (about $18 US each) for a great BBQ of either chicken or mahi mahi, cole slaw, rice, green salad and all the rum drinks you could drink! So...we were in Portsmouth for two Sundays and went to both. The first BBQ we probably had just a little too much rum...so we really laid back on the next Sunday...but still had a blast.
We attempted to find Phillip...the nice local man that picked us up and drove 10 miles out of his way to the Capuchin Trail...but we were walking around the town of Portsmouth on Sunday and found his shop all locked up.
We sailed away from Portsmouth on Monday morning....sadly leaving behind a wonderful town and people. This is also where Beez Neez will head North as we head South....hopefully to meet up again in Grenada in the future.
We sailed about 7nm only....to arrive in Mero, Dominica,
and anchor in about 22' of clear blue water! We had visited Mero last May when we "blasted" thru the Leewards and Windwards....but stumbled on a great walk/hike just past the Macoucheri Estate rum distillery! We were unable to get a tour last year, no one was available...and we didn't have enough time to continue our walk as far as we wanted. So, Jim really wanted to go back and try to get a tour of the distillery! On Tuesday we rowed our dinghy ashore and pulled it far up on the beach, tied it to a tree, and took off on our hike....back to the distillery. Mero has a beautiful volcanic black sand beach....so alot of the tours from the cruise ships visit this beach. The town is about 5 small blocks with the main road along the beach and the local bar open for the cruise ships tourists. There seemed to be alot of rebuilding going on...probably from the damage from the West hurricane, Omar, this past season. But, once again, the local people are so friendly, smiling and hard-working. We walked about 1 1/2 miles to the beginning of the Macoucheri road....avoiding the zooming cars and trucks on the only road that runs along the West coast of Dominica. We stopped in the distillery, but the workers were too busy making rum, crushing the sugar cane, so they were not available for a tour.
So...it was about 1000 in the morning and they said maybe around 1330 they would be available for a tour....to just return around then! So....we took off on our "short" hike, which was about 2.5 miles according to the chart. But......we found that the chart was not quite accurate and the road continued to the top of the ridge....about a 9-10 mile hike round-trip!! The bad sign was when a 4-wheel truck passed us....then we saw them locking down their hubs....and went nearly straight up a hill that we were continuing up!!!! I was nearly pulling Jim up the hill, rounding the switchbacks.....until he saw the top of the ridge...then he wanted to keep going! Good thing we did......great views and just massive, acres and acres, of fruit trees and gardens. We met Victor, a local "gardener" (as they call themselves rather than farmers)....who went into his garden 2 days prior and had about 50# of tomatoes in a basket, waiting for a ride down. He wanted to offer us some "jelly nuts" (unripened coconuts that you scoop the jelly out of and eat)...but he said his garden is way back off the road and pointed to a narrow path between the banana trees, down a ridge and probably on to the next mountain! We talked with him at length....he was originally from Louisianna and spent some time in Florida before moving to Dominica (rare to meet someone that wasn't born in Dominica!!!) But....we continued our walk further down the road. We met a few other locals who seemed to be amazed that we were just walking from Mero...."for exercise"....and talking with the locals. Alot of workers just waved to us and yelled "all right"or "everything good?" (which is the Hello greeting here) as we walked by.
The landscape is just amazing.
There are acres and acres....as far as you can see....of trees, fruit, flowers, and plants. The beginning of the road was all sugar cane, coconut palms and watermelon fields.....and after we reached the top there were gardens of passion fruit, more banana trees, orange and grapefruit trees, tomatoes, watermelon, dasheen, squash, papaya, green beans, peppers and I'm sure a few we didn't identify! Just spectacular!!! In addition to all this beauty are the hummingbirds, bananaquits, small hawks flying overhead.....and a parrot that we saw flying down the valley!By the time we got back down the mountain
and out onto the road to Mero, thru the village of Mero....we were ready to get back on Bees Knees and just collapse!! As we were walking back thru the little village of Mero......we were being hailed by someone...yelling and whistling....and we turned around and saw Victor walking rapidly toward us!! He just wanted to see that we made it back and to say HI again and point out where he lived in Mero! He said "next time you stop by Mero, now you can come and see me"! We hoisted anchor that late afternoon and motored down to Rouseau
.....very light wind...about 5K, on the nose. But it was only another 7nm from Mero to Rouseau...and we arrived just before sunset. We were met once again by a boat boy, Lenny, from Poncho Services...in his wooden skiff...to lead us to a mooring ball to tie off to. We found that Poncho Services is also a tour service and will do anything for you that you need, including laundry! So....we arranged for a tour that we've been wanting to go on....but it's been too expensive to arrange from Portsmouth. We agreed on a price and we were to be ready at 0900 the following day for pick up from Bees Knees! What service!We were whisked away from Bees Knees on the wooden skiff near 0900 on Wednesday...and jumped into a van with two other couples....from Canada and Slovenia! Mr. Jones was our driver and tour guide
....giving us a history of the island and pointing out several plants and trees along the drive....about 45 minutes to Victoria Falls...which is on the other side of the island. When we arrived at Victoria Falls....we all piled out of the van and took off thru the woods for our first hike to Victoria Falls. We crossed the river...about mid thigh height for me....knee high for Jim....then would climb along the rocks and cross the river again. Well....the Slovenian woman was as tall as me....and we had a little more difficulty making some of the long leg stretches reaching rocks....it was a riot!! At one point I gave her a boost and I think Jim did too! Great couple....her husband didn't speak any English...so just nodded and smiled alot! The Falls were beautiful...the lower part hit the rocks and it was such a beautiful display of water and the power!But....we were not to dally.....off we went...back to the beginning of the trail where there was a "Rastarant"!
Just so happens that the owner/chef of the facility was family to our boat boy, Poncho! But....being a rasta man...Moses made us the best vegetarian stew and served it in hard gourd shells with coconut shell slices as spoons! They were all smoking the local grown "seaweed", but the stew was just great!! He showed us his garden where he grew "herbe mal tete"(the cure for headaches and anything else that's ailing) and everything else that was in the stew, including three different kinds of basil. He then showed us the picture of him in "Islands" magazine, featuring Local faces of Dominica.....and there he was. He told us there were 5 centurions that lived in the next village and they attribute their long life to the "one pot meal" of vegetarian stew....and of course the local rum! What an interesting guy!! After lunch we drove for about 20 minutes to the next hike to Sari Sari Falls. This hike has been recommended by our good friend, Ed and Beep on MIDWATCH
, who'd been to Dominica a few years ago! So....we were so excited to finally be able to hike and see the falls! We took off thru a banana tree farm with a cow just lying by...and we were on a muddy, steep path to the river. We only crossed this river a couple of times, but had to hike in the water, close to the edge, alot of the way. The Falls were more powerful and windier than Victoria Falls....and just gorgeous! The jungle atmosphere and the sound of the falls were something that I tried to capture and put away in my mind as one of those most peaceful moments!!So....off we went back up the muddy trail...and back to the van. Mr. Jones drove us safely back to the other side of Dominica.....up and down the steep road and switchbacks....and, once again, we collapsed on Bees Knees. Jim and I had a great dinner of PB&J sandwiches that was leftover from our packed lunch!
Today is our last day in Dominica. It's really kinda heartbreaking....I really have enjoyed the people mostly...the scenery and the hikes. It's still my favorite island and if I had to live on the land.....I'd try to live here!
This morning we walked to the fresh market on the street of Rouseau...buying dasheen, pumpkin, onions, green onions, a pineapple, grapefruit and carrots! Then we hopped on a local bus for a short ride to the airport where we had arranged to pick up our mail and two boat items that we had ordered thru our mail service, St. Brendan's Isle. We found that easily....then walked back along the water to go to Customs to pick up our package. Then zoomed back to Bees Knees....dropped everything off and then dinghied back to the dock to go to the local grocery store for other ships stores. So....once that was accomplished we took all back to Bees Knees....then grabbed our computers and dinghied in to shore to have a beer and get free WIFI!!
So....that's what we do all day!!!
Funny thing that happened here.....the first night that Lenny and his partner showed us to the mooring and offered the trip to Sari Sari.....we offered them a cold beer.....two Presidentes from the DR. Well....word got out and they came back later for two more beers. This time I offered a Presidente and a Carib....but their faces almost fell out of the boat....so I took the Carib back and gave them another Presidente! (They make Carib and Kabouli beer here on the island). So...we saw them a couple times today, saying good-bye and thank you.....and on the way in to get the WIFI I brought along 2 of my treasured Bass Ale (I had 5 left).
We saw them zooming by....waved them over and gave them the "good-bye present" and said Good-bye once again to the nice people of Dominica!Tree Hugging in Dominica
March 20, 2009
Friday
Dominica is our new favorite Caribbean island!!
For several reasons...as you'll come to find!
The sail on Thursday, March 12, from The Saints was wonderful! We had 15-18K winds out of the ENE with very minimal swell (even though the prediction was for 6' swell)....we had our double reefed main, full jib and staysail...and we were flying along averaging about 7K....I saw 8.3K coming off a wave! It was a blast! Of course we were racing 2 other boats that were headed in our direction.....and we WON!!!!
Coming along the NW corner of Dominica was a little nerve-wracking for Jim.....seeing about a zillion other boats anchored in Prince Rupert Bay, Portsmouth, Dominica.
Dominica is also where the "boat boys" are....and they are the friendliest bunch of people and very polite and proud of their country. The first thing, as we're rounding the rock, the Cabrits, one of the "boat boys" in a boat named SEABIRD, painted aqua and white, with Jeffrey on board zooms by our portside....and the first thing he yells is "Welcome to Dominica"!! I don't ever remember pulling into a port/anchorage in the States and having someone welcome us to the US! Once we got all settled, anchored securely, Jeffrey's partner came over to talk to us and let us know that if we need anything to just call him on the VHF. They offer trips up the river with guides, trips to waterfalls, snorkeling trips and really about anything you'd want to have arranged to visit their beautiful country. The other "surf boys" are guys on surf boards...they sit on empty gas tanks and paddle around the anchorage, offering their services, i.e. trash removal, obtaining fruit, selling Dominican flags. They are also very friendly and outgoing....and can sing very loudly at times as they pass by your boat at all hours of the evening. But it's all very respectable and fun!
Friday we just took some time off and read books and relaxed....swam a little just off the boat in clear blue water. On Saturday we got up early to go into the market where they had a street full of locals selling fresh fruit and vegetables. We got green onions, bananas, carrots, watermelon, limes and the prettiest green leaf lettuce just fresh from the ground for about 20 EC...which is about $8 US. So.....we're set for the week!
We took a walk off the main road....up a dirt road,
passing alot of homes and talking to some of the people. One man actually came out of his house as we passed....just to say HI and introduce himself, Albert, and give us directions to a path that we might want to take. (That also has never happened to me in the States!!) That was a nice walk
and a great way to get off the beaten path to meet the locals and get a better idea of the community.
I've decided to update my varnish....so I'm starting here in Dominica. The perfect conditions are cool and dry, no wind, no rain...and preferably inside. We're still in the dry season here....Carem (Creole for dry season)....but it still sprinkles nearly daily...and usually three times a day. The good news is...it cools things down...plus there are beautiful rainbows! Everytime I've pulled out my can of Schooner varnish...the wind picks up and the dark clouds appear!! But...in spite of all of that....I've finally completed 4 coats on each forward toerail!! Whooohooo! When we bought Bees Knees...the teak was in terrible condition. There was an estimate by the boatyard to have it all done for $8000!!! I fell in love with the boat....probably due to the classic lines and teak....so I foolishly promised Jim that I'd always "do the teak"! So...now he tells everyone it's OUR boat, but ANN's teak! I'm still enjoying doing it....unless it turns out really bad.....so, it continues to be therapeutic for me.
On Monday we took a bus ride down to Rouseau, the capital of Dominica. We wanted to go to the botanical gardens
and just walk around the city. We took the local bus from Portsmouth to Rouseau for 9EC each which is about $3.50 and is about 28 miles along the coast! Great price for a great ride. The local bus drivers deserve their own blog....but they basically zoom and are safe! It's fun! In Rouseau there was a huge cruise ship
in port, so there were alot of tourists, so very busy. We, once again, got off the beaten "tourist" path and went to the botanical gardens
, hiking up the trail to the top
. Nice views of the bay and a great day! 
We stopped for lunch at a local pizza joint, then took the fun bus ride back to Portsmouth.
On St. Patrick's Day....Bees Knees flew the green flag!!
We're surrounded by British and Norwegian boats....so not alot of celebrating going on around the anchorage. If we were in Montserrat, it would be a national holiday!! They even stamp your passport with a shamrock! Montserrat was first settled by the Irish who arrived from St. Kitt's in 1630...according to the guidebook....but not much wearing of the green in Dominica. So....we decided to spend the day on a hike on the Capucin Trail....the most green we could find that day in all the trees and plants!
It's about a 10 mile drive to the beginning of the trail....so Jim and I started walking...hoping to catch the local bus. We kept walking and walking....until Phillip drove up and asked where we were going! He happens to be the owner of a local souvenir shop that allegedly sells the best rum punches....smooth.....and he is dating a girl from Ohio! We jumped in and he kept talking and laughing.....stopping to talk to another couple passing in a car.....calling out to some workers building a house....stopping and saying hello to a woman walking along the road...just a real friendly man. He also was just driving to a house about 1/2 mile from where he picked us up.....but he drove the rest of the way to take us to the beginning of the trail! Just amazing!! Jim offered him some money for gas, but he refused and said...come see me in my shop!! We plan on doing that and hopefully he and his girlfriend can join us for dinner on Bees Knees!! What a nice gesture....but just another example of how nice the people are here in Dominica!
Jim and I had a great hike on the Capucin trail.
It took us about four hours and it was just breathtaking! We kept going up and up until we were on a ridge
where we could see across a valley and see the path that we would eventually be on. We saw alot of creatures...including the usual snake
and spider
and crab
....plus just beautiful trees and plants and the occasional hawk.
We passed a few workers clearing the land with machetes.....and another gathering coconuts. At the end of the trail
there is a home where we met Bessamie Daygrow and her son while we waited for the bus that stops on the road right outside their home. Bessamie was very interesting....roasting cocoa beans in the back while we talked with her....sharing her history of 6 children and showing us her garden of beans, her goats, etc. Just a really nice woman! She also hoped that we loved Dominica...and gave us a brochure on the country that she had saved. Great people!
So many people comment on the name of our boat, Bees Knees. They ask us how we came up with the name.....we hear people laughing when they dinghy by....we've heard tour boats yell hey it's Bees Knees! So....it was a Huge surprise to see BEES NEEZ anchored here in Prince Rupert Bay!!!! Another Bees Knees....although spelled just a little different. We had received an email a few weeks ago from friends on DIGNITY, Helen and Steve, and they sent a picture of BEEZ NEEZ and said they couldn't believe they'd found a second Bees Knees!!!! So....when we saw the boat....it was just a riot! Plus....we had to meet the owners....and they are a riot also!! We've shared a few cocktails with them and plan on going to dinner tonight to hear a steel pan band at a local restaurant!!
Yesterday Jim and I took another HIKE up to the Morne Diblotin National Park to walk the Syndicate Trail and see the Milton Falls. We took a local bus to the road that leads to the Park....but is about "5 miles" to the park. So....we started walking
and walking and walking.....you get the picture. Plus we were going up and up and up
. It was just beautiful!! Not sure if we were both hypoxic, but the views were spectacular! We, once again, met the nicest people. One man came out of his field where he was clearing wood with a machete....and showed us all his plants that he was tending to. He and 4 others owned 27 acres of land....and only two of the men were working the fields. He had banana trees
, papaya, coffee
, mango, pear, soursop, and lime trees! Just amazing....all mixed together. We talked with him for awhile, rested, and then continued our walk. The next man we met was clearing some banana trees and stopped to tell us to take a turn to the right when we reach the park sign to get to the waterfall....which we wouldn't have known if it wasn't for him! So....we continued on and found a beautiful waterfall
....where we sat on rocks and ate our lunch of P,B&J sandwiches, watermelon, and mesquite peanuts! 
After lunch we retraced our tracks a bit and continued on into the park. This park is famous for the wild parrots that fly and breed in the area. 
We heard a few flying just before the waterfall, but then saw about 5 of them flying by as we walked. The park covers about 205 acres of land and the trail is on forest land that was previously earmarked for logging. It is nestled on the foothills of Dominica's tallest mountain....Morne Diablotin. The Sisserou (Amazona imperialis) is Dominica's National Bird (and on their flag)...and Jaco (Amazona arausiaca) are parrots only found on Dominica. When we saw them flying so far overhead, we couldn't distinguish which ones they were....but their sound and shape and their flight pattern is distinctive!
We finally made it to the Syndicate Trail
and walked amongst some of the largest trees I've ever seen
....besides the redwoods. 
We stopped for a few minutes at the nature center to pay our entrance fee and get more water....then off we went to head back down the hill!!!! We only took one wrong turn.....but quickly...after about a mile....turned around and went back the right way! It's just amazing all the trees and fruit in addition to the ones the man was growing....including grapefruit
and orange, cocoa
, sorrel, zillions of banana trees and just so many different flowering plants
, cute little pineapple plants
....but just continuous during our entire hike....and as far as we could see!! We bought some grapefruit at a little stand that someone had put up.....honor system....3 grapefruit for $1 EC...which is about 33 cents each of the sweetest and juiciest grapefruit.
You wouldn't starve in this forest!
Needless to say...the walk back down the mountain was painful! We both developed blisters on our feet and were wishing for one of those kind people to give us a ride home!! But....we made it back down to the road and hopped on the bus to take us back to Portsmouth! We were safely back on Bees Knees after sunset....about 1830....about an 8 hour day of hiking!!!
So....we'll be in Dominica about another week, but there is sooo much to tell about this island I decided to split up the blog....plus I'm sooooo wordy!!!
That all.....bye for now!
Friday
Dominica is our new favorite Caribbean island!!
For several reasons...as you'll come to find!The sail on Thursday, March 12, from The Saints was wonderful! We had 15-18K winds out of the ENE with very minimal swell (even though the prediction was for 6' swell)....we had our double reefed main, full jib and staysail...and we were flying along averaging about 7K....I saw 8.3K coming off a wave! It was a blast! Of course we were racing 2 other boats that were headed in our direction.....and we WON!!!!
Coming along the NW corner of Dominica was a little nerve-wracking for Jim.....seeing about a zillion other boats anchored in Prince Rupert Bay, Portsmouth, Dominica.
Dominica is also where the "boat boys" are....and they are the friendliest bunch of people and very polite and proud of their country. The first thing, as we're rounding the rock, the Cabrits, one of the "boat boys" in a boat named SEABIRD, painted aqua and white, with Jeffrey on board zooms by our portside....and the first thing he yells is "Welcome to Dominica"!! I don't ever remember pulling into a port/anchorage in the States and having someone welcome us to the US! Once we got all settled, anchored securely, Jeffrey's partner came over to talk to us and let us know that if we need anything to just call him on the VHF. They offer trips up the river with guides, trips to waterfalls, snorkeling trips and really about anything you'd want to have arranged to visit their beautiful country. The other "surf boys" are guys on surf boards...they sit on empty gas tanks and paddle around the anchorage, offering their services, i.e. trash removal, obtaining fruit, selling Dominican flags. They are also very friendly and outgoing....and can sing very loudly at times as they pass by your boat at all hours of the evening. But it's all very respectable and fun!Friday we just took some time off and read books and relaxed....swam a little just off the boat in clear blue water. On Saturday we got up early to go into the market where they had a street full of locals selling fresh fruit and vegetables. We got green onions, bananas, carrots, watermelon, limes and the prettiest green leaf lettuce just fresh from the ground for about 20 EC...which is about $8 US. So.....we're set for the week!
We took a walk off the main road....up a dirt road,
passing alot of homes and talking to some of the people. One man actually came out of his house as we passed....just to say HI and introduce himself, Albert, and give us directions to a path that we might want to take. (That also has never happened to me in the States!!) That was a nice walk and a great way to get off the beaten path to meet the locals and get a better idea of the community.I've decided to update my varnish....so I'm starting here in Dominica. The perfect conditions are cool and dry, no wind, no rain...and preferably inside. We're still in the dry season here....Carem (Creole for dry season)....but it still sprinkles nearly daily...and usually three times a day. The good news is...it cools things down...plus there are beautiful rainbows!
Everytime I've pulled out my can of Schooner varnish...the wind picks up and the dark clouds appear!! But...in spite of all of that....I've finally completed 4 coats on each forward toerail!! Whooohooo! When we bought Bees Knees...the teak was in terrible condition. There was an estimate by the boatyard to have it all done for $8000!!! I fell in love with the boat....probably due to the classic lines and teak....so I foolishly promised Jim that I'd always "do the teak"! So...now he tells everyone it's OUR boat, but ANN's teak! I'm still enjoying doing it....unless it turns out really bad.....so, it continues to be therapeutic for me.On Monday we took a bus ride down to Rouseau, the capital of Dominica. We wanted to go to the botanical gardens
and just walk around the city. We took the local bus from Portsmouth to Rouseau for 9EC each which is about $3.50 and is about 28 miles along the coast! Great price for a great ride. The local bus drivers deserve their own blog....but they basically zoom and are safe! It's fun! In Rouseau there was a huge cruise ship in port, so there were alot of tourists, so very busy. We, once again, got off the beaten "tourist" path and went to the botanical gardens, hiking up the trail to the top. Nice views of the bay and a great day! We stopped for lunch at a local pizza joint, then took the fun bus ride back to Portsmouth.On St. Patrick's Day....Bees Knees flew the green flag!!
We're surrounded by British and Norwegian boats....so not alot of celebrating going on around the anchorage. If we were in Montserrat, it would be a national holiday!! They even stamp your passport with a shamrock! Montserrat was first settled by the Irish who arrived from St. Kitt's in 1630...according to the guidebook....but not much wearing of the green in Dominica. So....we decided to spend the day on a hike on the Capucin Trail....the most green we could find that day in all the trees and plants!It's about a 10 mile drive to the beginning of the trail....so Jim and I started walking...hoping to catch the local bus. We kept walking and walking....until Phillip drove up and asked where we were going! He happens to be the owner of a local souvenir shop that allegedly sells the best rum punches....smooth.....and he is dating a girl from Ohio! We jumped in and he kept talking and laughing.....stopping to talk to another couple passing in a car.....calling out to some workers building a house....stopping and saying hello to a woman walking along the road...just a real friendly man. He also was just driving to a house about 1/2 mile from where he picked us up.....but he drove the rest of the way to take us to the beginning of the trail! Just amazing!! Jim offered him some money for gas, but he refused and said...come see me in my shop!! We plan on doing that and hopefully he and his girlfriend can join us for dinner on Bees Knees!! What a nice gesture....but just another example of how nice the people are here in Dominica!
Jim and I had a great hike on the Capucin trail.
It took us about four hours and it was just breathtaking! We kept going up and up until we were on a ridge where we could see across a valley and see the path that we would eventually be on. We saw alot of creatures...including the usual snake and spider and crab....plus just beautiful trees and plants and the occasional hawk. We passed a few workers clearing the land with machetes.....and another gathering coconuts. At the end of the trail there is a home where we met Bessamie Daygrow and her son while we waited for the bus that stops on the road right outside their home. Bessamie was very interesting....roasting cocoa beans in the back while we talked with her....sharing her history of 6 children and showing us her garden of beans, her goats, etc. Just a really nice woman! She also hoped that we loved Dominica...and gave us a brochure on the country that she had saved. Great people!So many people comment on the name of our boat, Bees Knees. They ask us how we came up with the name.....we hear people laughing when they dinghy by....we've heard tour boats yell hey it's Bees Knees! So....it was a Huge surprise to see BEES NEEZ anchored here in Prince Rupert Bay!!!! Another Bees Knees....although spelled just a little different. We had received an email a few weeks ago from friends on DIGNITY, Helen and Steve, and they sent a picture of BEEZ NEEZ and said they couldn't believe they'd found a second Bees Knees!!!! So....when we saw the boat....it was just a riot! Plus....we had to meet the owners....and they are a riot also!! We've shared a few cocktails with them and plan on going to dinner tonight to hear a steel pan band at a local restaurant!!
Yesterday Jim and I took another HIKE up to the Morne Diblotin National Park to walk the Syndicate Trail and see the Milton Falls. We took a local bus to the road that leads to the Park....but is about "5 miles" to the park. So....we started walking
and walking and walking.....you get the picture. Plus we were going up and up and up. It was just beautiful!! Not sure if we were both hypoxic, but the views were spectacular! We, once again, met the nicest people. One man came out of his field where he was clearing wood with a machete....and showed us all his plants that he was tending to. He and 4 others owned 27 acres of land....and only two of the men were working the fields. He had banana trees, papaya, coffee, mango, pear, soursop, and lime trees! Just amazing....all mixed together. We talked with him for awhile, rested, and then continued our walk. The next man we met was clearing some banana trees and stopped to tell us to take a turn to the right when we reach the park sign to get to the waterfall....which we wouldn't have known if it wasn't for him! So....we continued on and found a beautiful waterfall....where we sat on rocks and ate our lunch of P,B&J sandwiches, watermelon, and mesquite peanuts! After lunch we retraced our tracks a bit and continued on into the park. This park is famous for the wild parrots that fly and breed in the area. We heard a few flying just before the waterfall, but then saw about 5 of them flying by as we walked. The park covers about 205 acres of land and the trail is on forest land that was previously earmarked for logging. It is nestled on the foothills of Dominica's tallest mountain....Morne Diablotin. The Sisserou (Amazona imperialis) is Dominica's National Bird (and on their flag)...and Jaco (Amazona arausiaca) are parrots only found on Dominica. When we saw them flying so far overhead, we couldn't distinguish which ones they were....but their sound and shape and their flight pattern is distinctive! We finally made it to the Syndicate Trail
and walked amongst some of the largest trees I've ever seen....besides the redwoods. We stopped for a few minutes at the nature center to pay our entrance fee and get more water....then off we went to head back down the hill!!!! We only took one wrong turn.....but quickly...after about a mile....turned around and went back the right way! It's just amazing all the trees and fruit in addition to the ones the man was growing....including grapefruit and orange, cocoa, sorrel, zillions of banana trees and just so many different flowering plants, cute little pineapple plants....but just continuous during our entire hike....and as far as we could see!! We bought some grapefruit at a little stand that someone had put up.....honor system....3 grapefruit for $1 EC...which is about 33 cents each of the sweetest and juiciest grapefruit. You wouldn't starve in this forest!Needless to say...the walk back down the mountain was painful! We both developed blisters on our feet and were wishing for one of those kind people to give us a ride home!! But....we made it back down to the road and hopped on the bus to take us back to Portsmouth! We were safely back on Bees Knees after sunset....about 1830....about an 8 hour day of hiking!!!
So....we'll be in Dominica about another week, but there is sooo much to tell about this island I decided to split up the blog....plus I'm sooooo wordy!!!
That all.....bye for now!
HOLY RELICS....we're in Iles des Saintes (The Saints), Guadeloupe
March 12, 2009
Thursday
Well....we're leaving this AM for Dominica.....our time in Guadeloupe has sadly come to an end. But what a nice way to end our stay by being in Iles des Saintes!
They are actually only 5nm from Guadeloupe mainland nearest point and consist of about 1 main island and three smaller islands, along with a couple of uninhabited rocks and even smaller islands. There is a nice anchorage just to the West of Terre D'en Haut in Bourg des Saintes...which we anchored in, well protected except for a little swell that creeps around the island.
We did visit The Saints last year during our trip down from Maine to Venezuela, and spent a few days exploring the island on scooters with another couple from CONTESSA, Jeff and Carolee. So...we really only planned to spend a couple of days here, just to revisit and enjoy the culture and beauty of the islands. This island is really a tourist destination....more so than any other that we visited in Guadeloupe.
Jim and I hiked to "the island's most spectacular view" up to La Chameau
where there is an old Napoleonic lookout tower. 
To hike up there is a paved road the entire way, but nearly straight up to 1000'. Once again, another beautiful hike with great views of the island and anchorage. The road is not for any motor vehicles, but of course, a huge truck passed us as we were walking up....and it was a dump truck. Jim discovered the dump on the side of the mountain....they pour the garbage down the side, then light it on fire!! It's such a contrast looking down thru the smoke and garbage to see the pristine blue water! But, I guess it's an effective way to deal with the garbage for such a small island.
We had a wonderful dinner in a little French restaurant last year with CONTESSAs, so we decided to splurge and have another great dinner there on our last night in Guadeloupe.
We were only one of four tables that were seated that evening and I had Mahi mahi with an excellent cream sauce.....Jim ordered steak and got chicken....and that kind of set the tone for the "not to happy" French waiter!! He continued to snub us throughout the evening....but the food was so good and there were two other tables that were kind of entertaining.....that we enjoyed our dinner in spite of the waiter!
After obtaining more fresh French baguettes and some fresh veges from the sidewalk market....we are ready to leave The Saints.
The wind and weather look spectacular for our crossing to Dominica!
Bye for now!
Thursday
Well....we're leaving this AM for Dominica.....our time in Guadeloupe has sadly come to an end. But what a nice way to end our stay by being in Iles des Saintes!
They are actually only 5nm from Guadeloupe mainland nearest point and consist of about 1 main island and three smaller islands, along with a couple of uninhabited rocks and even smaller islands. There is a nice anchorage just to the West of Terre D'en Haut in Bourg des Saintes...which we anchored in, well protected except for a little swell that creeps around the island. We did visit The Saints last year during our trip down from Maine to Venezuela, and spent a few days exploring the island on scooters with another couple from CONTESSA, Jeff and Carolee. So...we really only planned to spend a couple of days here, just to revisit and enjoy the culture and beauty of the islands. This island is really a tourist destination....more so than any other that we visited in Guadeloupe.
Jim and I hiked to "the island's most spectacular view" up to La Chameau
where there is an old Napoleonic lookout tower. To hike up there is a paved road the entire way, but nearly straight up to 1000'. Once again, another beautiful hike with great views of the island and anchorage. The road is not for any motor vehicles, but of course, a huge truck passed us as we were walking up....and it was a dump truck. Jim discovered the dump on the side of the mountain....they pour the garbage down the side, then light it on fire!! It's such a contrast looking down thru the smoke and garbage to see the pristine blue water! But, I guess it's an effective way to deal with the garbage for such a small island.We had a wonderful dinner in a little French restaurant last year with CONTESSAs, so we decided to splurge and have another great dinner there on our last night in Guadeloupe.
We were only one of four tables that were seated that evening and I had Mahi mahi with an excellent cream sauce.....Jim ordered steak and got chicken....and that kind of set the tone for the "not to happy" French waiter!! He continued to snub us throughout the evening....but the food was so good and there were two other tables that were kind of entertaining.....that we enjoyed our dinner in spite of the waiter!After obtaining more fresh French baguettes and some fresh veges from the sidewalk market....we are ready to leave The Saints.
The wind and weather look spectacular for our crossing to Dominica!Bye for now!
Cowabunga in Guadeloupe!
March 8 ,2009
Monday
St. Anne, Guadeloupe
Had a great sail from English Harbour, Antigua, to Guadeloupe on Fat Tuesday, February 24, 2009. Jim and I decided that these were the biggest seas we've sailed in on Bees Knees....about 8-10' seas, but not quite breaking at the top. The wind was about 15-18 K out of the ESE and our heading was just due South....so it was a great sail! It's still amazing how the boat just floats to the top of each of those waves....it's just when you watch them pass you that you realize how big they are. We anchored in Deshaies, Guadeloupe,
as the anchorage filled up within a half hour of our arrival.
We had a great stay in Deshaies (pronounced Day Hay)....back in the land of French baguettes, espresso, good cheese and cheap French wine!! We were able to clear into Customs the second day there and now we're free to roam around the country!
We went for a "little" hike one day.....started walking up a road along the Deshaies River...then decided to turn around and walk the main road up and up and up, through neighborhoods....to get near the top of the river. We came across a huge fenced-off property near the top after passing a shrine of the Virgin Mary.
The land was well-manicured and we passed several workers landscaping the property....but the unusual thing was that they were wearing long smocks (kind of like a monk) with crosses on the front.....using weed wackers on the lawn!! We just kept walking....but just a little faster!
We found the top of the river and decided to walk down the river
...hopping from rock to rock. It was a blast!! It reminded us of the Gorge Trail in Acadia National Park that we hiked up to get to Cadillac Mt. But this hike had a river running down it! Plus....about a zillion spider webs!! We passed only 2 shack-like buildings....not sure if they were occupied and if they were how they hiked in and out with supplies???? 
After about 3 hours we were back to the lower beginning of the river and in the town of Deshaies. It was a great hike!
One day we were making water with our reverse osmosis AquaMarine....that makes about 24 gallons per hour.....and Jim heard a "pop"!! After a little investigation....and seeing water seeping out from under the Vberth floorboard....we found a high pressure hose that had chafed through and spraying salt water everywhere!! Luckily the compartment that it lives in is the most posterior Vberth compartment...and everything is in plastic bags!! So...no problem...other than we couldn't make water....wouldn't have water....would dehydrate.....and die!!!! Just joking!! We tried to find a local business to supply the hose, to no avail. So....Jim came up with a great idea and we moved the membrane to another wall where the hose would reach after slicing at the chafed part! So clever, that guy!!!! So....we ordered another hose from the company and it should arrive when we get to Dominica. In the meantime we're still able to make water and the connections are bone dry....whooohoooo!
On Sunday we moved around to the North end of Guadeloupe, in the Grand cul de sac Marin, to anchor behind another reef.....
in the middle of nowhere! It was just beautiful!! Blue blue water and white sandy bottom....a completely different Guadeloupe than we experienced last year when we just stayed on the West side. This has got to be the clearest water we've seen yet in the Caribbean! 
The following day we moved thru the reefs (the chart was completely off on the depths.....was prohibiting passage thru the reefs) but we had no problem!! We were seeing 30' between the reefs. Of course...the day before we went thru with our little depth sounder in the dinghy to spot check depths and found the same depths! Our Doyle guide is 9 years old...so not sure if he recommends this passage or our new anchorage off of Ilet a Fajou. Ilet a Fajou is a mangrove island.....that looks like Peanut Island on the weekend with alot of local motor boats and partys going on!! Another little island just North is Ilet a Carat
....I call it Carrot Top....and it is truly a tropical island....just white sand and palm trees!! So...we dinghied over there on Monday, March 2, to explore the little island. Just after we arrived a tour power catamaran came in filled with tourists.....kinda ruining the private tropical island atmosphere! We did find these sea "snakes" on the beach...half buried
...and of course Jim had to dig into the sand to find the other end!!! Really don't know what these were....couldn't find them in our Audobon Seashore Creature guide! Luckily we didn't bring them back to Bees Knees for pets!!!!
On Tuesday, March 3, we decided to move from our beautiful anchorage and move into the Riviere Salee (the Salee River) which splits "the butterfly" of Guadeloupe in half...between Grande Terre and Basse Terre. On the way to the river is a little anchorage behind just another reef....where we secured Bees Knees....then took off in the dinghy to explore the longest navigable river in the Eastern Caribbean, called the Grande Riviere a Goyave.
The guidebook says it reminds him of a long gentle river in the States but has weeping willows, bamboo
, breadfruit trees
, sugar cane and white ginger fields.....as well as zillions of cows. Alot of the cows are roaming freely in the fields along the river, but then some of them are chained or tied to a post or tree so they don't wander too far. The guidebook also warns not to swim in this river due to "Bilharzia". Jim and I tried to look that up in two travel medicine books we have onboard....but couldn't find what it was!! But....we didn't go swimming anyways! It was just beautiful and we saw all the trees listed. There were several locals that we passed....either working in the fields or fishing. Everyone was very friendly and waved 'till it looked like their arms would fall off! In one place a couple of guys were waving, then they started flagging us over to the side. Jim and I waved and just kept dinghying up the river. About 30 minutes later, we turned around to head back to Bees Knees. We passed all the same people...but the couple of guys who were waving at us to come to the shore were still hailing us! I glanced over to the other side of the river from where they were....and there was a COW in the river, nearly underwater! So.....it looked like they needed help to get the cow back across the river. So, Jim and I turned around and went to help. We first determined that we didn't speak French, so all of our communications from that point forward was thru hand motions! The two guys seemed to be father and son....and the father wanted us to take him across the river to save the cow. So....we agreed readily and he passed a stick and a HUGE machete to me...which I placed gently on the floor of our inflatable dinghy....and the man asked permission to enter the dinghy....very polite man. So....I helped him in and he was carrying a long rope also. So...in the short amount of time we had to cross the river to the cow (about 100 feet) I was trying to figure out what he was going to do. Jim and I really weren't discussing anything...just following this man's directions on how to save the cow. When we got close to the cow we could see that his harness that was around his head and neck was tangled in a tree floating in the river. His nose was above the water and his huge belly was floating off to the side...but that's about all that was above the water. We moved the dinghy as close as we could to the cow (by the way the cow also had two sharp pointy horns.....real close to our inflatable dinghy!!) The man took the machete and started sawing thru the webbing that was tightly across the top of the cow's head. I had to look the other way...thinking that there was no way he'd cut thru that with that huge machete and not chop into his head!! I just didn't want to watch....so I moved to the front of the dinghy and held onto a bamboo tree to try to stabilize the boat. The cow was kinda floating, looking at me with his huge eye, as Jim was kinda patting the back end of the cow to keep it calm. It took a few minutes for the man to get thru the webbing and the cow was now free....but luckily the man did place that rope around his horns....so he gently pulled on the rope to guide the cow back across the river. Well....the cow started swimming and pulled all three of us in the dinghy across the river. In the meantime...Jim actually tells me to try to get pictures!!!! What a great idea, but it was hard to get pictures when I was slipping in the mud now in the dinghy....moving around the dinghy out of the way of the man with the machete....and thinking of how we were going to swim with a cow on a rope once he punctured the dinghy....plus in a river with Bilharzia!!!! But, amazingly we made it back across the river to the steep bank. Now we had to get the cow to move up the bank.
He tried a few times and the man had jumped out of the dinghy to try to pull him ashore with his son....to no avail. So....he pointed further down the river where the bank wasn't as steep....and he jumped back into the dinghy....still holding the rope attached to the horns of the cow. So.....we pulled the cow and he happily followed by now...probably getting a little tired....and he climbed up the hill on all four knees, slipping in the mud. In the meantime...the man jumped from the dinghy, in a hurry to get ashore to keep control of the cow with his son......but he jumped right into a "monkey no-climb" bush...but didn't even yell!!!! So...he hurried up the hill and helped his son get control of the cow. Jim and I realized our job here was done....so we all waved good-bye to each other and Jim and I continued on our journey down the river! Just an amazing story, don't you think? It was great to be able to help, but I still feel bad that we didn't stop the first time we saw them as we were going up the river. The other amazing thing is that we almost didn't go dinghying up the river because we had a hard time anchoring Bees Knees in the grass at the mouth of the river....we got it stuck on the third try! So....there is a reason for everything, right?
The dinghy was full of mud...so Jim got buckets of water and a brush and cleaned it up a bit....then we upped anchor and continued on to the Riviere Salee where we anchored just off the channel in about 7' of water to await the bridge opening the next AM.
We set the alarm for 0345 to ready the boat and be at the bridge with our lights on at 0430! We made it with about 10 minutes to spare...and the bridge opened right on time. We were the only boat to clear the first bridge. Now we had to continue on to make the 0500 opening at the next bridge, in the dark, down a narrow mangrove river with well maintained markers with lights. We made the next bridge with 2 minutes to spare and it opened right on time. We passed uneventfully thru the narrow bridge and anchored on the South side to await daylight to continue to Pointe-a-Pitre.
We spent one day in Pointe-a-Pitre.
...long enough to get French bread, wine and cheese! The "general strike" has now been settled and all the stores were busy re-stocking. We really didn't explore the town, just anchored outside the Marina Bas-Du-Fort
.....which had all the amenities....grocery stores, restaurants, bars, WIFI. Jim and I spent a few hours on Wednesday afternoon, sipping a beer and getting WIFI at a local restaurant/bar. The problem was that we could receive email, but couldn't send any email thru their server.....so.....I wrote alot to send another day!
On Thursday, the 5th, we moved about 3nm to go to Ilet du Gosier in Guadeloupe.
It's just a cute little island off the SE coast with a lighthouse and ruins. 
There was a huge swimming club there....they seemed to start from the beach on the mainland and would swim out to the reef, beyond the furthest boat, then swim back. It was just unusual to see sooooo many swimmers....some had paddles on their hands, some had snorkels, and a few were wearing fins...but mostly free-styling. There were also many runners on the beach....leading one to believe that there was a triathlon in the near future!
We moved to St. Anne, Guadeloupe
, on Friday, March 6...only about 6nm away from Ilet du Gosier...so we motorsailed into the wind. We came through the opening in the reefs easily and anchored in about 8' of flat calm water. The beach is beautiful 
and has alot of restaurants along the shore...as well as fresh vege market, an artisan market, a walkway for pedestrians and a church that has bells that toll every hour! Really a nice little town with, again, a huge swimming contingent, sailboarders, kayakers, little tin can sailors
and lasers....just a busy, fun place to be. So....we decided to stay a few extra days and enjoy the area. We went to dinner one night and today enjoyed a nice lunch ashore....Creole French food and decent prices....with an "apertif" a la maison after lunch! So, not bad! We did a little shopping in the markets
and alot of swimming around the boat. Jim cleaned the whole bottom of the boat over two days. We had a real fuzzy bottom (last bottom paint was applied in Marathon, FL, in January 2008)...right before we left the States. So...it's time to get it done again...but we're trying to hold off until Grenada...just a few more months. So....I've been reading alot of books and enjoying just taking some time off! You probably wonder from what....as I do...but I did!!!!
Tomorrow we plan on sailing off to Les Saintes....an island that is still part of Guadeloupe, about 20nm away from St. Anne.
Bye for now!
Monday
St. Anne, Guadeloupe
Had a great sail from English Harbour, Antigua, to Guadeloupe on Fat Tuesday, February 24, 2009. Jim and I decided that these were the biggest seas we've sailed in on Bees Knees....about 8-10' seas, but not quite breaking at the top. The wind was about 15-18 K out of the ESE and our heading was just due South....so it was a great sail! It's still amazing how the boat just floats to the top of each of those waves....it's just when you watch them pass you that you realize how big they are. We anchored in Deshaies, Guadeloupe,
as the anchorage filled up within a half hour of our arrival. We had a great stay in Deshaies (pronounced Day Hay)....back in the land of French baguettes, espresso, good cheese and cheap French wine!! We were able to clear into Customs the second day there and now we're free to roam around the country!
We went for a "little" hike one day.....started walking up a road along the Deshaies River...then decided to turn around and walk the main road up and up and up, through neighborhoods....to get near the top of the river. We came across a huge fenced-off property near the top after passing a shrine of the Virgin Mary.
The land was well-manicured and we passed several workers landscaping the property....but the unusual thing was that they were wearing long smocks (kind of like a monk) with crosses on the front.....using weed wackers on the lawn!! We just kept walking....but just a little faster! We found the top of the river and decided to walk down the river
...hopping from rock to rock. It was a blast!! It reminded us of the Gorge Trail in Acadia National Park that we hiked up to get to Cadillac Mt. But this hike had a river running down it! Plus....about a zillion spider webs!! We passed only 2 shack-like buildings....not sure if they were occupied and if they were how they hiked in and out with supplies???? After about 3 hours we were back to the lower beginning of the river and in the town of Deshaies. It was a great hike!One day we were making water with our reverse osmosis AquaMarine....that makes about 24 gallons per hour.....and Jim heard a "pop"!! After a little investigation....and seeing water seeping out from under the Vberth floorboard....we found a high pressure hose that had chafed through and spraying salt water everywhere!! Luckily the compartment that it lives in is the most posterior Vberth compartment...and everything is in plastic bags!! So...no problem...other than we couldn't make water....wouldn't have water....would dehydrate.....and die!!!! Just joking!! We tried to find a local business to supply the hose, to no avail. So....Jim came up with a great idea and we moved the membrane to another wall where the hose would reach after slicing at the chafed part! So clever, that guy!!!! So....we ordered another hose from the company and it should arrive when we get to Dominica. In the meantime we're still able to make water and the connections are bone dry....whooohoooo!
On Sunday we moved around to the North end of Guadeloupe, in the Grand cul de sac Marin, to anchor behind another reef.....
in the middle of nowhere! It was just beautiful!! Blue blue water and white sandy bottom....a completely different Guadeloupe than we experienced last year when we just stayed on the West side. This has got to be the clearest water we've seen yet in the Caribbean! The following day we moved thru the reefs (the chart was completely off on the depths.....was prohibiting passage thru the reefs) but we had no problem!! We were seeing 30' between the reefs. Of course...the day before we went thru with our little depth sounder in the dinghy to spot check depths and found the same depths! Our Doyle guide is 9 years old...so not sure if he recommends this passage or our new anchorage off of Ilet a Fajou. Ilet a Fajou is a mangrove island.....that looks like Peanut Island on the weekend with alot of local motor boats and partys going on!! Another little island just North is Ilet a Carat
....I call it Carrot Top....and it is truly a tropical island....just white sand and palm trees!! So...we dinghied over there on Monday, March 2, to explore the little island. Just after we arrived a tour power catamaran came in filled with tourists.....kinda ruining the private tropical island atmosphere! We did find these sea "snakes" on the beach...half buried...and of course Jim had to dig into the sand to find the other end!!! Really don't know what these were....couldn't find them in our Audobon Seashore Creature guide! Luckily we didn't bring them back to Bees Knees for pets!!!!On Tuesday, March 3, we decided to move from our beautiful anchorage and move into the Riviere Salee (the Salee River) which splits "the butterfly" of Guadeloupe in half...between Grande Terre and Basse Terre. On the way to the river is a little anchorage behind just another reef....where we secured Bees Knees....then took off in the dinghy to explore the longest navigable river in the Eastern Caribbean, called the Grande Riviere a Goyave.
The guidebook says it reminds him of a long gentle river in the States but has weeping willows, bamboo, breadfruit trees, sugar cane and white ginger fields.....as well as zillions of cows. Alot of the cows are roaming freely in the fields along the river, but then some of them are chained or tied to a post or tree so they don't wander too far. The guidebook also warns not to swim in this river due to "Bilharzia". Jim and I tried to look that up in two travel medicine books we have onboard....but couldn't find what it was!! But....we didn't go swimming anyways! It was just beautiful and we saw all the trees listed. There were several locals that we passed....either working in the fields or fishing. Everyone was very friendly and waved 'till it looked like their arms would fall off! In one place a couple of guys were waving, then they started flagging us over to the side. Jim and I waved and just kept dinghying up the river. About 30 minutes later, we turned around to head back to Bees Knees. We passed all the same people...but the couple of guys who were waving at us to come to the shore were still hailing us! I glanced over to the other side of the river from where they were....and there was a COW in the river, nearly underwater! So.....it looked like they needed help to get the cow back across the river. So, Jim and I turned around and went to help. We first determined that we didn't speak French, so all of our communications from that point forward was thru hand motions! The two guys seemed to be father and son....and the father wanted us to take him across the river to save the cow. So....we agreed readily and he passed a stick and a HUGE machete to me...which I placed gently on the floor of our inflatable dinghy....and the man asked permission to enter the dinghy....very polite man. So....I helped him in and he was carrying a long rope also. So...in the short amount of time we had to cross the river to the cow (about 100 feet) I was trying to figure out what he was going to do. Jim and I really weren't discussing anything...just following this man's directions on how to save the cow. When we got close to the cow we could see that his harness that was around his head and neck was tangled in a tree floating in the river. His nose was above the water and his huge belly was floating off to the side...but that's about all that was above the water. We moved the dinghy as close as we could to the cow (by the way the cow also had two sharp pointy horns.....real close to our inflatable dinghy!!) The man took the machete and started sawing thru the webbing that was tightly across the top of the cow's head. I had to look the other way...thinking that there was no way he'd cut thru that with that huge machete and not chop into his head!! I just didn't want to watch....so I moved to the front of the dinghy and held onto a bamboo tree to try to stabilize the boat. The cow was kinda floating, looking at me with his huge eye, as Jim was kinda patting the back end of the cow to keep it calm. It took a few minutes for the man to get thru the webbing and the cow was now free....but luckily the man did place that rope around his horns....so he gently pulled on the rope to guide the cow back across the river. Well....the cow started swimming and pulled all three of us in the dinghy across the river. In the meantime...Jim actually tells me to try to get pictures!!!! What a great idea, but it was hard to get pictures when I was slipping in the mud now in the dinghy....moving around the dinghy out of the way of the man with the machete....and thinking of how we were going to swim with a cow on a rope once he punctured the dinghy....plus in a river with Bilharzia!!!! But, amazingly we made it back across the river to the steep bank. Now we had to get the cow to move up the bank. He tried a few times and the man had jumped out of the dinghy to try to pull him ashore with his son....to no avail. So....he pointed further down the river where the bank wasn't as steep....and he jumped back into the dinghy....still holding the rope attached to the horns of the cow. So.....we pulled the cow and he happily followed by now...probably getting a little tired....and he climbed up the hill on all four knees, slipping in the mud. In the meantime...the man jumped from the dinghy, in a hurry to get ashore to keep control of the cow with his son......but he jumped right into a "monkey no-climb" bush...but didn't even yell!!!! So...he hurried up the hill and helped his son get control of the cow. Jim and I realized our job here was done....so we all waved good-bye to each other and Jim and I continued on our journey down the river! Just an amazing story, don't you think? It was great to be able to help, but I still feel bad that we didn't stop the first time we saw them as we were going up the river. The other amazing thing is that we almost didn't go dinghying up the river because we had a hard time anchoring Bees Knees in the grass at the mouth of the river....we got it stuck on the third try! So....there is a reason for everything, right?The dinghy was full of mud...so Jim got buckets of water and a brush and cleaned it up a bit....then we upped anchor and continued on to the Riviere Salee where we anchored just off the channel in about 7' of water to await the bridge opening the next AM.
We set the alarm for 0345 to ready the boat and be at the bridge with our lights on at 0430! We made it with about 10 minutes to spare...and the bridge opened right on time. We were the only boat to clear the first bridge. Now we had to continue on to make the 0500 opening at the next bridge, in the dark, down a narrow mangrove river with well maintained markers with lights. We made the next bridge with 2 minutes to spare and it opened right on time. We passed uneventfully thru the narrow bridge and anchored on the South side to await daylight to continue to Pointe-a-Pitre.
We spent one day in Pointe-a-Pitre.
...long enough to get French bread, wine and cheese! The "general strike" has now been settled and all the stores were busy re-stocking. We really didn't explore the town, just anchored outside the Marina Bas-Du-Fort.....which had all the amenities....grocery stores, restaurants, bars, WIFI. Jim and I spent a few hours on Wednesday afternoon, sipping a beer and getting WIFI at a local restaurant/bar. The problem was that we could receive email, but couldn't send any email thru their server.....so.....I wrote alot to send another day!On Thursday, the 5th, we moved about 3nm to go to Ilet du Gosier in Guadeloupe.
It's just a cute little island off the SE coast with a lighthouse and ruins. There was a huge swimming club there....they seemed to start from the beach on the mainland and would swim out to the reef, beyond the furthest boat, then swim back. It was just unusual to see sooooo many swimmers....some had paddles on their hands, some had snorkels, and a few were wearing fins...but mostly free-styling. There were also many runners on the beach....leading one to believe that there was a triathlon in the near future!We moved to St. Anne, Guadeloupe
, on Friday, March 6...only about 6nm away from Ilet du Gosier...so we motorsailed into the wind. We came through the opening in the reefs easily and anchored in about 8' of flat calm water. The beach is beautiful and has alot of restaurants along the shore...as well as fresh vege market, an artisan market, a walkway for pedestrians and a church that has bells that toll every hour! Really a nice little town with, again, a huge swimming contingent, sailboarders, kayakers, little tin can sailors and lasers....just a busy, fun place to be. So....we decided to stay a few extra days and enjoy the area. We went to dinner one night and today enjoyed a nice lunch ashore....Creole French food and decent prices....with an "apertif" a la maison after lunch! So, not bad! We did a little shopping in the markets and alot of swimming around the boat. Jim cleaned the whole bottom of the boat over two days. We had a real fuzzy bottom (last bottom paint was applied in Marathon, FL, in January 2008)...right before we left the States. So...it's time to get it done again...but we're trying to hold off until Grenada...just a few more months. So....I've been reading alot of books and enjoying just taking some time off! You probably wonder from what....as I do...but I did!!!!Tomorrow we plan on sailing off to Les Saintes....an island that is still part of Guadeloupe, about 20nm away from St. Anne.
Bye for now!
French horn in English Harbour
February 23, 2009
Monday
English Harbour, Antigua
Well....we left Green Island, Antigua and arrived in English Harbour a few hours later...just a little South and West....into one of the most crowded anchorages yet. We anchored just off the reef at the entrance to the harbour, right next to a very friendly French couple. The problem with English Harbour is that all the boats are pointing in different directions at the same time
and it's difficult, at best, to try to find a hole to anchor in...that provides swinging room. Plus there are moorings, boats anchored bow and stern and some boats with two bow anchors. What a mess. So.....at 0400 the next morning...we're awakened for some reason...and glance out and see a boat touching our neighbors portside....and we're anchored to his port!!!! So...it happens to be a German boat (pretty nice boat...Dantes) 
that attempts to anchor 5 times in the same spot, but keeps dragging. The funny thing is....everytime they'd set their anchor, they go below....maybe sleep for five minutes...then we'd wake them up with flashlites shining thru their portholes to advise them they're DRAGGING again!!! Well...the last time, they caught their anchor on our chain....so now we're running around the boat, starting the engine, have the spreader lights on.....they're feigning they don't speak English, although we heard them speaking English to each other. Another couple from "Audrey Paige" came over in their dinghy and helped them get their anchor off our chain....then they went away and anchored elsewhere. The next morning we saw their boat safely tied to a dock....but they did some damage to the French boat....and never came back to apologize or make amends!!!! You meet all kinds out here!!!
Jim and I kept busy in English Harbour. It seems like time really went by fast. We spent some time walking the docks and seeing the huge mega sailing yachts.
We went to a benefit BBQ for some children...one was the child of the captain that was murdered a little over a month ago....here in English Harbour. We took a hike one day up to Shirley Heights....huge cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and English and Falmouth Harbours.
Jim ran into a spiky bush and had to render first aid to himself.......
We saw several goats (the new dog) along the path...
but I think we really were on the goat path. We had a quick lunch at the top of the hike
...then proceeded back down the other side of the hill to the harbour.
Another day we hiked over to the fort and up the hill
....again seeing several goats and more goats.
The best day was the inaugural RORC 600 sailboat race. We decided to watch the start from the dinghy....did I mention that there were 10' swells???? It was a blast. We decided to wear our wet suits (dive suits)
...and it was perfect. We were trying to take pictures...got alot of the orange triangle marking the start!! There were three starts....the smaller boats first...then the megayachts....then the multihulls. Our favorite was Region Guadeloupe
....the trimaran....that was favored to win and came in first place...about 40 hours to cover 600 miles. The course was from Antigua to Barbuda to Nevis to Saba to St. Bart's around St. Martin, down to Guadeloupe and around the island...then back up to Barbuda....over to Redonda...then an upwind finish back to English Harbour in Antigua. We didn't see the trimaran finish, but we did see the second boat finish....a Farr 100, sponsored by ICAP, named Leopard. It was fun just watching....can't imagine how much fun to be crew or rail meat!
We spent an entire day provisioning the boat. We plan on leaving tomorrow for Guadeloupe and there may still be a strike going on there.....and no food available....so we decided to go fully provisioned and fueled up. We took the bus from English Harbour to St. John's for only 3.50 EC each...which is about $1.25 each....a great deal. When we got to St. John's we needed to take another bus to get to Wood's Mall....where the large grocery store is...the Epicurian. So...we waited for a little bit...then decided to walk....we were told it was only 7/8 of a mile...and a security guard pointed the direction to head. Well....we started out and kept walking and walking....then asked again....and they said "you can't walk there"....but then were given directions.....well....eventually we did find it and we did walk there. Not sure how far we went, but we made it. Just imagine....going grocery shopping....getting food for the next two weeks...and then carrying it all back in bags on your shoulders or in backpacks!!! We got on the bus just outside the store...and rode back to St. John's bus center. As I waited with all the bags....Jim ran over to the fresh market to get veges and fruits. So...now we have a few more bags. Well....we got on the bus....took up a few extra seats....but got back to English Harbour in one piece!! We loaded everything into the dinghy and motored back out to Bees Knees to put everything away. Then we went back into the dock to pick up our propane tank that we had filled...to check out with Customs and Immigration....and to pick up more beer and wine. So.....we're hobbling down the street....I have 12 bottles of wine in canvas bags on my shoulders and am carrying the full 10# propane tank and Jim was carrying a case of beer. Luckily we met up with some other cruisers who helped us by carrying the propane all the way back to the dinghy. WHEW!!
But....that's what we do all day!!!!
So....our stay in Antigua has come to an end. Tonight a French Horn is being played by someone as the sun is setting.....he's up in the fort....just across the harbour entrance
....I can see him with the binoculars. It's really a nice sound at sunset. I feel like we've seen as much as we could without living here full time. I really wanted to see English Harbour and the race was really a bonus....since I've always heard about Antigua and racing...just wanted to experience it. We've met up with some great cruisers that we'll continue to see downisland.....Audrey Paige and Strider. So...that's something to look forward to spending more time with them. Also we're trying to catch up with our friends on Dignity....they're in Dominica by now. Maybe we'll catch them in St. Lucia.
The other major event that's been taking place in Antigua is the elections....between the two parties, UPP and ALP. We happened to collect a couple of UPP flags during our walks...mostly in Jolly Harbour. There have been Jeeps or other vehicles parading the streets with loud speakers...either playing music or preaching about which party to vote for. They are either all red (ALP) or all blue (UPP). Riding back from the Epicurian grocery store on the local bus, the local radio was playing music, political party music....and a woman, that must have been 80-90 years old, was sitting across the aisle, dancing and singing to the music and smiling at me. They love politics! Also....to follow-up on the Obama election/inauguration, there are signs all over Antigua...."OBAMA for President of America"....plus the local snack bar in Nelson's Dockyard in English Harbour had this Obama ice cream.......
Well.....that's all for now....off to Guadeloupe in the AM!!
Monday
English Harbour, Antigua
Well....we left Green Island, Antigua and arrived in English Harbour a few hours later...just a little South and West....into one of the most crowded anchorages yet. We anchored just off the reef at the entrance to the harbour, right next to a very friendly French couple. The problem with English Harbour is that all the boats are pointing in different directions at the same time
and it's difficult, at best, to try to find a hole to anchor in...that provides swinging room. Plus there are moorings, boats anchored bow and stern and some boats with two bow anchors. What a mess. So.....at 0400 the next morning...we're awakened for some reason...and glance out and see a boat touching our neighbors portside....and we're anchored to his port!!!! So...it happens to be a German boat (pretty nice boat...Dantes) that attempts to anchor 5 times in the same spot, but keeps dragging. The funny thing is....everytime they'd set their anchor, they go below....maybe sleep for five minutes...then we'd wake them up with flashlites shining thru their portholes to advise them they're DRAGGING again!!! Well...the last time, they caught their anchor on our chain....so now we're running around the boat, starting the engine, have the spreader lights on.....they're feigning they don't speak English, although we heard them speaking English to each other. Another couple from "Audrey Paige" came over in their dinghy and helped them get their anchor off our chain....then they went away and anchored elsewhere. The next morning we saw their boat safely tied to a dock....but they did some damage to the French boat....and never came back to apologize or make amends!!!! You meet all kinds out here!!!Jim and I kept busy in English Harbour. It seems like time really went by fast. We spent some time walking the docks and seeing the huge mega sailing yachts.
We went to a benefit BBQ for some children...one was the child of the captain that was murdered a little over a month ago....here in English Harbour. We took a hike one day up to Shirley Heights....huge cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and English and Falmouth Harbours. Jim ran into a spiky bush and had to render first aid to himself.......We saw several goats (the new dog) along the path...
but I think we really were on the goat path. We had a quick lunch at the top of the hike...then proceeded back down the other side of the hill to the harbour. Another day we hiked over to the fort and up the hill....again seeing several goats and more goats.The best day was the inaugural RORC 600 sailboat race. We decided to watch the start from the dinghy....did I mention that there were 10' swells???? It was a blast. We decided to wear our wet suits (dive suits)
...and it was perfect. We were trying to take pictures...got alot of the orange triangle marking the start!! There were three starts....the smaller boats first...then the megayachts....then the multihulls. Our favorite was Region Guadeloupe....the trimaran....that was favored to win and came in first place...about 40 hours to cover 600 miles. The course was from Antigua to Barbuda to Nevis to Saba to St. Bart's around St. Martin, down to Guadeloupe and around the island...then back up to Barbuda....over to Redonda...then an upwind finish back to English Harbour in Antigua. We didn't see the trimaran finish, but we did see the second boat finish....a Farr 100, sponsored by ICAP, named Leopard. It was fun just watching....can't imagine how much fun to be crew or rail meat!We spent an entire day provisioning the boat. We plan on leaving tomorrow for Guadeloupe and there may still be a strike going on there.....and no food available....so we decided to go fully provisioned and fueled up. We took the bus from English Harbour to St. John's for only 3.50 EC each...which is about $1.25 each....a great deal. When we got to St. John's we needed to take another bus to get to Wood's Mall....where the large grocery store is...the Epicurian. So...we waited for a little bit...then decided to walk....we were told it was only 7/8 of a mile...and a security guard pointed the direction to head. Well....we started out and kept walking and walking....then asked again....and they said "you can't walk there"....but then were given directions.....well....eventually we did find it and we did walk there. Not sure how far we went, but we made it. Just imagine....going grocery shopping....getting food for the next two weeks...and then carrying it all back in bags on your shoulders or in backpacks!!! We got on the bus just outside the store...and rode back to St. John's bus center. As I waited with all the bags....Jim ran over to the fresh market to get veges and fruits. So...now we have a few more bags. Well....we got on the bus....took up a few extra seats....but got back to English Harbour in one piece!! We loaded everything into the dinghy and motored back out to Bees Knees to put everything away. Then we went back into the dock to pick up our propane tank that we had filled...to check out with Customs and Immigration....and to pick up more beer and wine. So.....we're hobbling down the street....I have 12 bottles of wine in canvas bags on my shoulders and am carrying the full 10# propane tank and Jim was carrying a case of beer. Luckily we met up with some other cruisers who helped us by carrying the propane all the way back to the dinghy. WHEW!!
But....that's what we do all day!!!!
So....our stay in Antigua has come to an end. Tonight a French Horn is being played by someone as the sun is setting.....he's up in the fort....just across the harbour entrance
....I can see him with the binoculars. It's really a nice sound at sunset. I feel like we've seen as much as we could without living here full time. I really wanted to see English Harbour and the race was really a bonus....since I've always heard about Antigua and racing...just wanted to experience it. We've met up with some great cruisers that we'll continue to see downisland.....Audrey Paige and Strider. So...that's something to look forward to spending more time with them. Also we're trying to catch up with our friends on Dignity....they're in Dominica by now. Maybe we'll catch them in St. Lucia.The other major event that's been taking place in Antigua is the elections....between the two parties, UPP and ALP. We happened to collect a couple of UPP flags during our walks...mostly in Jolly Harbour. There have been Jeeps or other vehicles parading the streets with loud speakers...either playing music or preaching about which party to vote for. They are either all red (ALP) or all blue (UPP). Riding back from the Epicurian grocery store on the local bus, the local radio was playing music, political party music....and a woman, that must have been 80-90 years old, was sitting across the aisle, dancing and singing to the music and smiling at me. They love politics! Also....to follow-up on the Obama election/inauguration, there are signs all over Antigua...."OBAMA for President of America"....plus the local snack bar in Nelson's Dockyard in English Harbour had this Obama ice cream.......
Well.....that's all for now....off to Guadeloupe in the AM!!
I Don't Like Lizards or Snakes!!!! but that ain't what it takes.....
February 18, 2009
Nonsuch Bay, Green Island, Antigua
So...I guess....this is what wintering in the Caribbean is all about. Hiding from Weather!
We are presently in this beautiful bay, protected by reefs just off our bow....and we have a little wave action at 20K from the ENE....which is pointing about at Europe.....alot of fetch there...but the reefs stop any big wave or swell. It's going to be impressive as the wind and waves build....we have a little breaking of waves on Green Island....but not much today. The wind and waves are predicted to just keep building.
We left Jumby Bay and the view of the beautiful resort on Friday the 13th....and didn't have any untoward things happen to us!!!! But....really we only went about 2-3 miles....so we didn't want to stretch our luck!!!! When we anchored at Great Bird Island we were, once again....the only boat there.
It was beautiful!!!! On Valentine's Day we hiked around the island and spent the day watching just beautiful tropic birds.
They were flying off the cliffs on the West side of the island...probably had some nests there. I was mesmerized by them, to say the least. They are just beautiful birds and sooooo graceful. It was really a great hike and fun to see all the birds. There were a few frigate birds flying by, but they carried on and the tropic birds didn't seem to care.
Great Bird Island also is home to maybe one of the rarest snakes in the world....the Antiguan racer snake.....and of course....what do we run across?????
The rarest snake, possibly, in the world....while we're walking on Great Bird Island. I'll post a picture of it....but Jim spotted it....then it moved a bit into the foliage on the ground....so it looks like a stick...but it's really a very rare SNAKE!!! Not my favorite pet! But I was impressed. We also came across a really cool green lizard on a nearby island, Maiden Island.....
and another lizard on Great Bird Island with a "forked" tail!!
The longer we stayed on Great Bird Island, the more crowded it became. A catamaran came first and anchored almost on top of us....then invited us for cocktails the evening of Valentine's Day. I said "welcome to our anchorage"....they started apologizing because they anchored in this pristine anchorage right on top of us....then they invited us for drinks....and I said...well...it's Valentine's Day and NO....we want to spend it alone!!!!! So...of course I felt bad the rest of the night because I "snubbed" our new neighbors.....but oh well. The following day about 3 other boats appeared....this is a really small anchorage....and it became really crowded.
On February 16, or President's Day, Monday, we left Great Bird Island for Green Island....still on Antigua's Eastern shore. But we took the Little Bird Island Channel out....which is precarious as best...alot of reefs and visual navigation.
So....I stayed on the bow and we wore our little headsets named "Cruising Solutions"....advertised as "marriage savers"...but for us it's really "boat partner savers"...but they are really convenient.....no yelling and you can say all sorts of things to each other in just a whisper. But....we cruised thru the channel, unscathed....and motorsailed into the wind...about 6 miles to Green Island.
We anchored in about 20' of water, just inside the reef...closer than any other boat that was here at the time. We're moving into the humongous cruising sailing yachts....and there were a few at anchor here when we arrived. I counted 13 dorades on the deck of this huge dark blue sailing yacht....but only seeing it from the portside! So...just imagine!!!! It is a beautiful vessel! We anchored next to an Italian sailing yacht.....a male singlehandler....that does yoga or meditation in the nude every morning. The yacht is beautiful.....he's invited several other cruisers onboard for tours.....but not us......yet. There are two of the coolest-looking catamarans I've ever seen here, also. One is a German boat...that looks like a spaceship....and is painted partially bright yellow. The people are real athletes....swimming the breast stroke daily around the anchorage....and tonight giving everyone a great show as he kiteboarded thru the anchored boats!
We snorkeled a bit yesterday....during the calm wind and seas. Saw alot of little fish, but only two groupers and no lobster. Once again....very disappointed with the reef conditions as compare with the Bahamas. We walked the beach on the South side of Green Island and Jim found a fire worm in the shallow water!!! I'm suprised he didn't bring it back onboard to commune with our colony of geckos!!!!
Today we took the dinghy over to the mainland.....Harmony House. They are a bar/restaurant/art gallery.....and we considered having lunch there. We took a look at the menu and decided that 120 EC for lunch was a bit much....and came back to Bees Knees and had a great tuna salad delight on crackers with honey mustard and "leftover" coleslaw!!! For basically.....free!!!! We checked into how to get to a town for groceries....we're getting a bit low....and probably would have to hitchhike to town. So....we think we'll last until we get to English Harbour sometime in the near future.
So.....this evening we watched a few kiteboarders zoom thru the anchorage....airborne at times.....and watched the sunset thru the building clouds. We're up in the air about when to leave....we only have a few more legal days in this country....the 24th, Tuesday....should be our last day.
Stay tuned! Bye for now.
Nonsuch Bay, Green Island, Antigua
So...I guess....this is what wintering in the Caribbean is all about. Hiding from Weather!
We are presently in this beautiful bay, protected by reefs just off our bow....and we have a little wave action at 20K from the ENE....which is pointing about at Europe.....alot of fetch there...but the reefs stop any big wave or swell. It's going to be impressive as the wind and waves build....we have a little breaking of waves on Green Island....but not much today. The wind and waves are predicted to just keep building.
We left Jumby Bay and the view of the beautiful resort on Friday the 13th....and didn't have any untoward things happen to us!!!! But....really we only went about 2-3 miles....so we didn't want to stretch our luck!!!! When we anchored at Great Bird Island we were, once again....the only boat there.
It was beautiful!!!! On Valentine's Day we hiked around the island and spent the day watching just beautiful tropic birds.
They were flying off the cliffs on the West side of the island...probably had some nests there. I was mesmerized by them, to say the least. They are just beautiful birds and sooooo graceful. It was really a great hike and fun to see all the birds. There were a few frigate birds flying by, but they carried on and the tropic birds didn't seem to care.
Great Bird Island also is home to maybe one of the rarest snakes in the world....the Antiguan racer snake.....and of course....what do we run across?????
The rarest snake, possibly, in the world....while we're walking on Great Bird Island. I'll post a picture of it....but Jim spotted it....then it moved a bit into the foliage on the ground....so it looks like a stick...but it's really a very rare SNAKE!!! Not my favorite pet! But I was impressed. We also came across a really cool green lizard on a nearby island, Maiden Island.....
and another lizard on Great Bird Island with a "forked" tail!!
The longer we stayed on Great Bird Island, the more crowded it became. A catamaran came first and anchored almost on top of us....then invited us for cocktails the evening of Valentine's Day. I said "welcome to our anchorage"....they started apologizing because they anchored in this pristine anchorage right on top of us....then they invited us for drinks....and I said...well...it's Valentine's Day and NO....we want to spend it alone!!!!! So...of course I felt bad the rest of the night because I "snubbed" our new neighbors.....but oh well. The following day about 3 other boats appeared....this is a really small anchorage....and it became really crowded.
On February 16, or President's Day, Monday, we left Great Bird Island for Green Island....still on Antigua's Eastern shore. But we took the Little Bird Island Channel out....which is precarious as best...alot of reefs and visual navigation.
So....I stayed on the bow and we wore our little headsets named "Cruising Solutions"....advertised as "marriage savers"...but for us it's really "boat partner savers"...but they are really convenient.....no yelling and you can say all sorts of things to each other in just a whisper. But....we cruised thru the channel, unscathed....and motorsailed into the wind...about 6 miles to Green Island.
We anchored in about 20' of water, just inside the reef...closer than any other boat that was here at the time. We're moving into the humongous cruising sailing yachts....and there were a few at anchor here when we arrived. I counted 13 dorades on the deck of this huge dark blue sailing yacht....but only seeing it from the portside! So...just imagine!!!! It is a beautiful vessel! We anchored next to an Italian sailing yacht.....a male singlehandler....that does yoga or meditation in the nude every morning. The yacht is beautiful.....he's invited several other cruisers onboard for tours.....but not us......yet. There are two of the coolest-looking catamarans I've ever seen here, also. One is a German boat...that looks like a spaceship....and is painted partially bright yellow. The people are real athletes....swimming the breast stroke daily around the anchorage....and tonight giving everyone a great show as he kiteboarded thru the anchored boats!
We snorkeled a bit yesterday....during the calm wind and seas. Saw alot of little fish, but only two groupers and no lobster. Once again....very disappointed with the reef conditions as compare with the Bahamas. We walked the beach on the South side of Green Island and Jim found a fire worm in the shallow water!!! I'm suprised he didn't bring it back onboard to commune with our colony of geckos!!!!
Today we took the dinghy over to the mainland.....Harmony House. They are a bar/restaurant/art gallery.....and we considered having lunch there. We took a look at the menu and decided that 120 EC for lunch was a bit much....and came back to Bees Knees and had a great tuna salad delight on crackers with honey mustard and "leftover" coleslaw!!! For basically.....free!!!! We checked into how to get to a town for groceries....we're getting a bit low....and probably would have to hitchhike to town. So....we think we'll last until we get to English Harbour sometime in the near future.
So.....this evening we watched a few kiteboarders zoom thru the anchorage....airborne at times.....and watched the sunset thru the building clouds. We're up in the air about when to leave....we only have a few more legal days in this country....the 24th, Tuesday....should be our last day.
Stay tuned! Bye for now.
Hiding from the Weather!
February 11, 2009
Jumby Bay, Long Island, Antigua
Well....we're anchored securely, behind another reef and small island, but still the wind is blowing up to 30K, rain squalls coming thru all last night and today. During the day we have it timed, down to less than 0.2 seconds, to jump up when the rain starts to close all the hatches! So....that's how we get most of our exercise when we're confined to Bees Knees during weather like this!! Whoo hoo!
We did end up sailing around the West side of Barbuda and anchored at Low Bay....a beautiful clean white and pink sandy beach.
I've started my shell collection again for my sister-in-law, Karen, and had to use my shirt to carry home all the shells that we found! It was just beautiful. We also splurged and had a great lunch at a little beach bar....lobster, peas and rice, salad, and Beer! The local beer is Wadadli, but they were out....so here's a little pic of Jim drinking the great Caribbean beer, Old Milwaukee!!! 
We motorsailed back after lunch and anchored a little closer to the reefs in Spanish Point, Barbuda...the SE end. Snorkeled and cleaned the bottom of the boat. The reef on the bottom of Bees Knees was more alive than any of the reefs around the anchorage! There were very few fish and only one reef that was really "alive". Kinda sad.
We did meet up with "Audrey Paige"...a couple that we met briefly in Puerto LaCruz, VE...and had cocktails on their boat one evening...sharing stories. We'll see them down the road, I'm sure.
We both left the following day, Monday 2/9/2009, to sail South, back to Antigua. We were again zooming, doing 6-7K, beam reach in about 17-20K winds...with a double-reefed main and a bit of jib out. Just fun! We needed to provision, so we stopped in St. John's, anchored just off the channel at Side Hill Bay. The water was not the blue of Barbuda....but was the green very cloudy flushing of the port water. We watched the boat shows going in and out of the harbor.....big cruise ships!!! We went into town on Tuesday...but there were two huge cruise ships in port at the time.....and it really gets crowded. We were able to find a really nice bookstore, The Map Shop on St. Mary's Street, where we found a couple of books regarding the history of the island and a biography of a local man...."To Shoot Hard Labour". The two women at the checkout counter were really sweet and kind....talking briefly about the history of the island, one woman was 70 years old and native, and how things have changed and life is becoming more dangerous for them and visitors. They advised us to be careful! Really a nice exchange....would have loved to hang and talk with them more!
We then went to the market where they had excellent fresh produce being sold by the locals at little stands set up in an open air building. We bought onions, ginger, plantains, zucchini, cabbage, oranges and a coconut. One woman watched Jim do the picking and states..."he's the chef, huh?" I said "yeah....can you tell?" She just laughed and said that's good!!!
We zoomed all of that back to the boat, by dinghy...only to return back to shore for provisions from the grocery store! And people wonder what we do all day! So...loaded down with "stuff" from the grocery store, I stopped by the duty-free wine store on the way back to the dinghy....and off we went again. We decided to motor out of there....and head to cleaner water! We picked up the anchor and it had plastic hanging off of it.....luckily it wasn't the dead mongoose that floated by earlier!!
We motored into the wind and went around the North side of Antigua to head to where we're anchored now. If the wind at 26K right on the nose and seas and spray flying everywhere wasn't bad enough....there were about 50 little hobie cats, windsurfers, and sunfish sailboats all strewn about the North shore off of a resort.....tipping over, flying right in front of the bow!!! Just crazy!! But what a great way to learn to sail....someone else's gear/boat...and good wind!
We're anchored just off the shore of quite an elite resort....Jumby Bay Resort.....the only boat right now. The winds and seas should start calming tomorrow....but for today, we'll just relax and enjoy the views! At least we have food and wine!!!
Bye for now!
Jumby Bay, Long Island, Antigua
Well....we're anchored securely, behind another reef and small island, but still the wind is blowing up to 30K, rain squalls coming thru all last night and today. During the day we have it timed, down to less than 0.2 seconds, to jump up when the rain starts to close all the hatches! So....that's how we get most of our exercise when we're confined to Bees Knees during weather like this!! Whoo hoo!
We did end up sailing around the West side of Barbuda and anchored at Low Bay....a beautiful clean white and pink sandy beach.
I've started my shell collection again for my sister-in-law, Karen, and had to use my shirt to carry home all the shells that we found! It was just beautiful. We also splurged and had a great lunch at a little beach bar....lobster, peas and rice, salad, and Beer! The local beer is Wadadli, but they were out....so here's a little pic of Jim drinking the great Caribbean beer, Old Milwaukee!!! We motorsailed back after lunch and anchored a little closer to the reefs in Spanish Point, Barbuda...the SE end. Snorkeled and cleaned the bottom of the boat. The reef on the bottom of Bees Knees was more alive than any of the reefs around the anchorage! There were very few fish and only one reef that was really "alive". Kinda sad.
We did meet up with "Audrey Paige"...a couple that we met briefly in Puerto LaCruz, VE...and had cocktails on their boat one evening...sharing stories. We'll see them down the road, I'm sure.
We both left the following day, Monday 2/9/2009, to sail South, back to Antigua. We were again zooming, doing 6-7K, beam reach in about 17-20K winds...with a double-reefed main and a bit of jib out. Just fun! We needed to provision, so we stopped in St. John's, anchored just off the channel at Side Hill Bay. The water was not the blue of Barbuda....but was the green very cloudy flushing of the port water. We watched the boat shows going in and out of the harbor.....big cruise ships!!! We went into town on Tuesday...but there were two huge cruise ships in port at the time.....and it really gets crowded. We were able to find a really nice bookstore, The Map Shop on St. Mary's Street, where we found a couple of books regarding the history of the island and a biography of a local man...."To Shoot Hard Labour". The two women at the checkout counter were really sweet and kind....talking briefly about the history of the island, one woman was 70 years old and native, and how things have changed and life is becoming more dangerous for them and visitors. They advised us to be careful! Really a nice exchange....would have loved to hang and talk with them more!
We then went to the market where they had excellent fresh produce being sold by the locals at little stands set up in an open air building. We bought onions, ginger, plantains, zucchini, cabbage, oranges and a coconut. One woman watched Jim do the picking and states..."he's the chef, huh?" I said "yeah....can you tell?" She just laughed and said that's good!!!
We zoomed all of that back to the boat, by dinghy...only to return back to shore for provisions from the grocery store! And people wonder what we do all day! So...loaded down with "stuff" from the grocery store, I stopped by the duty-free wine store on the way back to the dinghy....and off we went again. We decided to motor out of there....and head to cleaner water! We picked up the anchor and it had plastic hanging off of it.....luckily it wasn't the dead mongoose that floated by earlier!!
We motored into the wind and went around the North side of Antigua to head to where we're anchored now. If the wind at 26K right on the nose and seas and spray flying everywhere wasn't bad enough....there were about 50 little hobie cats, windsurfers, and sunfish sailboats all strewn about the North shore off of a resort.....tipping over, flying right in front of the bow!!! Just crazy!! But what a great way to learn to sail....someone else's gear/boat...and good wind!
We're anchored just off the shore of quite an elite resort....Jumby Bay Resort.....the only boat right now. The winds and seas should start calming tomorrow....but for today, we'll just relax and enjoy the views! At least we have food and wine!!!
Bye for now!
