Everything Good?
March 26, 2009
Thursday
In the last blog I mentioned a fun-filled night to be had....going to a local restaurant to hear a steal pan band!!! Well....the two Bees Knees and Beez Neez got together and walked thru town, Portsmouth, Dominica, to be at the Creole Italian restuarant, ADAJ, by 1830.....to listen to two high school girls play their 6-song repertoire on the steel pans right next to us. The "buffet" was one time through only...and jello or cake for dessert. So.....we couldn't really hear each other talk, so we ate, then went back to the local bar, Big Papas, and had a few drinks, laughs!
On Sunday nights in Portsmouth there is a BBQ dinner/jump up at Big Papas put on by the local boat boys and security network in the anchorage. It's only for the "yachties", as they call the combo of sailboaters, powerboaters, trawlers....and it's $50 EC each (about $18 US each) for a great BBQ of either chicken or mahi mahi, cole slaw, rice, green salad and all the rum drinks you could drink! So...we were in Portsmouth for two Sundays and went to both. The first BBQ we probably had just a little too much rum...so we really laid back on the next Sunday...but still had a blast.
We attempted to find Phillip...the nice local man that picked us up and drove 10 miles out of his way to the Capuchin Trail...but we were walking around the town of Portsmouth on Sunday and found his shop all locked up.
We sailed away from Portsmouth on Monday morning....sadly leaving behind a wonderful town and people. This is also where Beez Neez will head North as we head South....hopefully to meet up again in Grenada in the future.
We sailed about 7nm only....to arrive in Mero, Dominica,
and anchor in about 22' of clear blue water! We had visited Mero last May when we "blasted" thru the Leewards and Windwards....but stumbled on a great walk/hike just past the Macoucheri Estate rum distillery! We were unable to get a tour last year, no one was available...and we didn't have enough time to continue our walk as far as we wanted. So, Jim really wanted to go back and try to get a tour of the distillery! On Tuesday we rowed our dinghy ashore and pulled it far up on the beach, tied it to a tree, and took off on our hike....back to the distillery. Mero has a beautiful volcanic black sand beach
....so alot of the tours from the cruise ships visit this beach. The town is about 5 small blocks with the main road along the beach and the local bar open for the cruise ships tourists. There seemed to be alot of rebuilding going on...probably from the damage from the West hurricane, Omar, this past season. But, once again, the local people are so friendly, smiling and hard-working.
We walked about 1 1/2 miles to the beginning of the Macoucheri road....avoiding the zooming cars and trucks on the only road that runs along the West coast of Dominica. We stopped in the distillery, but the workers were too busy making rum, crushing the sugar cane, so they were not available for a tour.
So...it was about 1000 in the morning and they said maybe around 1330 they would be available for a tour....to just return around then! So....we took off on our "short" hike, which was about 2.5 miles according to the chart. But......we found that the chart was not quite accurate and the road continued to the top of the ridge....about a 9-10 mile hike round-trip!! 
The bad sign was when a 4-wheel truck passed us....then we saw them locking down their hubs....and went nearly straight up a hill that we were continuing up!!!! I was nearly pulling Jim up the hill, rounding the switchbacks.....until he saw the top of the ridge...then he wanted to keep going! Good thing we did......great views and just massive, acres and acres, of fruit trees and gardens. 
We met Victor, a local "gardener" (as they call themselves rather than farmers)....who went into his garden 2 days prior and had about 50# of tomatoes in a basket, waiting for a ride down. He wanted to offer us some "jelly nuts" (unripened coconuts that you scoop the jelly out of and eat)...but he said his garden is way back off the road and pointed to a narrow path between the banana trees, down a ridge and probably on to the next mountain! We talked with him at length....he was originally from Louisianna and spent some time in Florida before moving to Dominica (rare to meet someone that wasn't born in Dominica!!!) But....we continued our walk further down the road. We met a few other locals who seemed to be amazed that we were just walking from Mero...."for exercise"....and talking with the locals. Alot of workers just waved to us and yelled "all right"or "everything good?" (which is the Hello greeting here) as we walked by.
The landscape is just amazing.
There are acres and acres....as far as you can see....of trees, fruit, flowers, and plants. The beginning of the road was all sugar cane, coconut palms and watermelon fields
.....and after we reached the top there were gardens of passion fruit, more banana trees, orange and grapefruit trees, tomatoes, watermelon, dasheen, squash, papaya, green beans, peppers
and I'm sure a few we didn't identify! Just spectacular!!! In addition to all this beauty are the hummingbirds, bananaquits, small hawks flying overhead.....and a parrot that we saw flying down the valley!
By the time we got back down the mountain
and out onto the road to Mero, thru the village of Mero....we were ready to get back on Bees Knees and just collapse!! As we were walking back thru the little village of Mero......we were being hailed by someone...yelling and whistling....and we turned around and saw Victor walking rapidly toward us!! He just wanted to see that we made it back and to say HI again and point out where he lived in Mero! He said "next time you stop by Mero, now you can come and see me"!
We hoisted anchor that late afternoon and motored down to Rouseau
.....very light wind...about 5K, on the nose. But it was only another 7nm from Mero to Rouseau...and we arrived just before sunset. We were met once again by a boat boy, Lenny, from Poncho Services...in his wooden skiff...to lead us to a mooring ball to tie off to. We found that Poncho Services is also a tour service and will do anything for you that you need, including laundry! So....we arranged for a tour that we've been wanting to go on....but it's been too expensive to arrange from Portsmouth. We agreed on a price and we were to be ready at 0900 the following day for pick up from Bees Knees! What service!
We were whisked away from Bees Knees on the wooden skiff near 0900 on Wednesday...and jumped into a van with two other couples....from Canada and Slovenia! Mr. Jones was our driver and tour guide
....giving us a history of the island and pointing out several plants and trees along the drive....about 45 minutes to Victoria Falls...which is on the other side of the island. When we arrived at Victoria Falls....we all piled out of the van and took off thru the woods for our first hike to Victoria Falls. 
We crossed the river...about mid thigh height for me....knee high for Jim....then would climb along the rocks and cross the river again. Well....the Slovenian woman was as tall as me....and we had a little more difficulty making some of the long leg stretches reaching rocks....it was a riot!! At one point I gave her a boost and I think Jim did too! Great couple....her husband didn't speak any English...so just nodded and smiled alot! The Falls were beautiful...the lower part hit the rocks and it was such a beautiful display of water and the power!
But....we were not to dally.....off we went...back to the beginning of the trail where there was a "Rastarant"!
Just so happens that the owner/chef of the facility was family to our boat boy, Poncho! But....being a rasta man...Moses
made us the best vegetarian stew and served it in hard gourd shells with coconut shell slices as spoons! They were all smoking the local grown "seaweed", but the stew was just great!! He showed us his garden where he grew "herbe mal tete"(the cure for headaches and anything else that's ailing) and everything else that was in the stew, including three different kinds of basil. He then showed us the picture of him in "Islands" magazine, featuring Local faces of Dominica.....and there he was. He told us there were 5 centurions that lived in the next village and they attribute their long life to the "one pot meal" of vegetarian stew
....and of course the local rum! What an interesting guy!!
After lunch we drove for about 20 minutes to the next hike to Sari Sari Falls. This hike has been recommended by our good friend, Ed and Beep on MIDWATCH
, who'd been to Dominica a few years ago! So....we were so excited to finally be able to hike and see the falls! We took off thru a banana tree farm
with a cow just lying by...and we were on a muddy, steep path to the river. We only crossed this river a couple of times, but had to hike in the water, close to the edge, alot of the way. The Falls were more powerful and windier than Victoria Falls....and just gorgeous! 
The jungle atmosphere and the sound of the falls were something that I tried to capture and put away in my mind as one of those most peaceful moments!!
So....off we went back up the muddy trail...and back to the van. Mr. Jones drove us safely back to the other side of Dominica.....up and down the steep road and switchbacks....and, once again, we collapsed on Bees Knees. Jim and I had a great dinner of PB&J sandwiches that was leftover from our packed lunch!
Today is our last day in Dominica. It's really kinda heartbreaking....I really have enjoyed the people mostly...the scenery and the hikes. It's still my favorite island and if I had to live on the land.....I'd try to live here!
This morning we walked to the fresh market on the street of Rouseau...buying dasheen, pumpkin, onions, green onions, a pineapple, grapefruit and carrots! Then we hopped on a local bus for a short ride to the airport where we had arranged to pick up our mail and two boat items that we had ordered thru our mail service, St. Brendan's Isle. We found that easily....then walked back along the water to go to Customs to pick up our package. Then zoomed back to Bees Knees....dropped everything off and then dinghied back to the dock to go to the local grocery store for other ships stores. So....once that was accomplished we took all back to Bees Knees....then grabbed our computers and dinghied in to shore to have a beer and get free WIFI!!
So....that's what we do all day!!!
Funny thing that happened here.....the first night that Lenny and his partner showed us to the mooring and offered the trip to Sari Sari.....we offered them a cold beer.....two Presidentes from the DR. Well....word got out and they came back later for two more beers. This time I offered a Presidente and a Carib....but their faces almost fell out of the boat....so I took the Carib back and gave them another Presidente! (They make Carib and Kabouli beer here on the island). So...we saw them a couple times today, saying good-bye and thank you.....and on the way in to get the WIFI I brought along 2 of my treasured Bass Ale (I had 5 left).
We saw them zooming by....waved them over and gave them the "good-bye present" and said Good-bye once again to the nice people of Dominica!
Thursday
In the last blog I mentioned a fun-filled night to be had....going to a local restaurant to hear a steal pan band!!! Well....the two Bees Knees and Beez Neez got together and walked thru town, Portsmouth, Dominica, to be at the Creole Italian restuarant, ADAJ, by 1830.....to listen to two high school girls play their 6-song repertoire on the steel pans right next to us. The "buffet" was one time through only...and jello or cake for dessert. So.....we couldn't really hear each other talk, so we ate, then went back to the local bar, Big Papas, and had a few drinks, laughs!
On Sunday nights in Portsmouth there is a BBQ dinner/jump up at Big Papas put on by the local boat boys and security network in the anchorage. It's only for the "yachties", as they call the combo of sailboaters, powerboaters, trawlers....and it's $50 EC each (about $18 US each) for a great BBQ of either chicken or mahi mahi, cole slaw, rice, green salad and all the rum drinks you could drink! So...we were in Portsmouth for two Sundays and went to both. The first BBQ we probably had just a little too much rum...so we really laid back on the next Sunday...but still had a blast.
We attempted to find Phillip...the nice local man that picked us up and drove 10 miles out of his way to the Capuchin Trail...but we were walking around the town of Portsmouth on Sunday and found his shop all locked up.
We sailed away from Portsmouth on Monday morning....sadly leaving behind a wonderful town and people. This is also where Beez Neez will head North as we head South....hopefully to meet up again in Grenada in the future.
We sailed about 7nm only....to arrive in Mero, Dominica,
and anchor in about 22' of clear blue water! We had visited Mero last May when we "blasted" thru the Leewards and Windwards....but stumbled on a great walk/hike just past the Macoucheri Estate rum distillery! We were unable to get a tour last year, no one was available...and we didn't have enough time to continue our walk as far as we wanted. So, Jim really wanted to go back and try to get a tour of the distillery! On Tuesday we rowed our dinghy ashore and pulled it far up on the beach, tied it to a tree, and took off on our hike....back to the distillery. Mero has a beautiful volcanic black sand beach....so alot of the tours from the cruise ships visit this beach. The town is about 5 small blocks with the main road along the beach and the local bar open for the cruise ships tourists. There seemed to be alot of rebuilding going on...probably from the damage from the West hurricane, Omar, this past season. But, once again, the local people are so friendly, smiling and hard-working. We walked about 1 1/2 miles to the beginning of the Macoucheri road....avoiding the zooming cars and trucks on the only road that runs along the West coast of Dominica. We stopped in the distillery, but the workers were too busy making rum, crushing the sugar cane, so they were not available for a tour.
So...it was about 1000 in the morning and they said maybe around 1330 they would be available for a tour....to just return around then! So....we took off on our "short" hike, which was about 2.5 miles according to the chart. But......we found that the chart was not quite accurate and the road continued to the top of the ridge....about a 9-10 mile hike round-trip!! The bad sign was when a 4-wheel truck passed us....then we saw them locking down their hubs....and went nearly straight up a hill that we were continuing up!!!! I was nearly pulling Jim up the hill, rounding the switchbacks.....until he saw the top of the ridge...then he wanted to keep going! Good thing we did......great views and just massive, acres and acres, of fruit trees and gardens. We met Victor, a local "gardener" (as they call themselves rather than farmers)....who went into his garden 2 days prior and had about 50# of tomatoes in a basket, waiting for a ride down. He wanted to offer us some "jelly nuts" (unripened coconuts that you scoop the jelly out of and eat)...but he said his garden is way back off the road and pointed to a narrow path between the banana trees, down a ridge and probably on to the next mountain! We talked with him at length....he was originally from Louisianna and spent some time in Florida before moving to Dominica (rare to meet someone that wasn't born in Dominica!!!) But....we continued our walk further down the road. We met a few other locals who seemed to be amazed that we were just walking from Mero...."for exercise"....and talking with the locals. Alot of workers just waved to us and yelled "all right"or "everything good?" (which is the Hello greeting here) as we walked by.
The landscape is just amazing.
There are acres and acres....as far as you can see....of trees, fruit, flowers, and plants. The beginning of the road was all sugar cane, coconut palms and watermelon fields.....and after we reached the top there were gardens of passion fruit, more banana trees, orange and grapefruit trees, tomatoes, watermelon, dasheen, squash, papaya, green beans, peppers and I'm sure a few we didn't identify! Just spectacular!!! In addition to all this beauty are the hummingbirds, bananaquits, small hawks flying overhead.....and a parrot that we saw flying down the valley!By the time we got back down the mountain
and out onto the road to Mero, thru the village of Mero....we were ready to get back on Bees Knees and just collapse!! As we were walking back thru the little village of Mero......we were being hailed by someone...yelling and whistling....and we turned around and saw Victor walking rapidly toward us!! He just wanted to see that we made it back and to say HI again and point out where he lived in Mero! He said "next time you stop by Mero, now you can come and see me"! We hoisted anchor that late afternoon and motored down to Rouseau
.....very light wind...about 5K, on the nose. But it was only another 7nm from Mero to Rouseau...and we arrived just before sunset. We were met once again by a boat boy, Lenny, from Poncho Services...in his wooden skiff...to lead us to a mooring ball to tie off to. We found that Poncho Services is also a tour service and will do anything for you that you need, including laundry! So....we arranged for a tour that we've been wanting to go on....but it's been too expensive to arrange from Portsmouth. We agreed on a price and we were to be ready at 0900 the following day for pick up from Bees Knees! What service!We were whisked away from Bees Knees on the wooden skiff near 0900 on Wednesday...and jumped into a van with two other couples....from Canada and Slovenia! Mr. Jones was our driver and tour guide
....giving us a history of the island and pointing out several plants and trees along the drive....about 45 minutes to Victoria Falls...which is on the other side of the island. When we arrived at Victoria Falls....we all piled out of the van and took off thru the woods for our first hike to Victoria Falls. We crossed the river...about mid thigh height for me....knee high for Jim....then would climb along the rocks and cross the river again. Well....the Slovenian woman was as tall as me....and we had a little more difficulty making some of the long leg stretches reaching rocks....it was a riot!! At one point I gave her a boost and I think Jim did too! Great couple....her husband didn't speak any English...so just nodded and smiled alot! The Falls were beautiful...the lower part hit the rocks and it was such a beautiful display of water and the power!But....we were not to dally.....off we went...back to the beginning of the trail where there was a "Rastarant"!
Just so happens that the owner/chef of the facility was family to our boat boy, Poncho! But....being a rasta man...Moses made us the best vegetarian stew and served it in hard gourd shells with coconut shell slices as spoons! They were all smoking the local grown "seaweed", but the stew was just great!! He showed us his garden where he grew "herbe mal tete"(the cure for headaches and anything else that's ailing) and everything else that was in the stew, including three different kinds of basil. He then showed us the picture of him in "Islands" magazine, featuring Local faces of Dominica.....and there he was. He told us there were 5 centurions that lived in the next village and they attribute their long life to the "one pot meal" of vegetarian stew....and of course the local rum! What an interesting guy!! After lunch we drove for about 20 minutes to the next hike to Sari Sari Falls. This hike has been recommended by our good friend, Ed and Beep on MIDWATCH
, who'd been to Dominica a few years ago! So....we were so excited to finally be able to hike and see the falls! We took off thru a banana tree farm with a cow just lying by...and we were on a muddy, steep path to the river. We only crossed this river a couple of times, but had to hike in the water, close to the edge, alot of the way. The Falls were more powerful and windier than Victoria Falls....and just gorgeous! The jungle atmosphere and the sound of the falls were something that I tried to capture and put away in my mind as one of those most peaceful moments!!So....off we went back up the muddy trail...and back to the van. Mr. Jones drove us safely back to the other side of Dominica.....up and down the steep road and switchbacks....and, once again, we collapsed on Bees Knees. Jim and I had a great dinner of PB&J sandwiches that was leftover from our packed lunch!
Today is our last day in Dominica. It's really kinda heartbreaking....I really have enjoyed the people mostly...the scenery and the hikes. It's still my favorite island and if I had to live on the land.....I'd try to live here!
This morning we walked to the fresh market on the street of Rouseau...buying dasheen, pumpkin, onions, green onions, a pineapple, grapefruit and carrots! Then we hopped on a local bus for a short ride to the airport where we had arranged to pick up our mail and two boat items that we had ordered thru our mail service, St. Brendan's Isle. We found that easily....then walked back along the water to go to Customs to pick up our package. Then zoomed back to Bees Knees....dropped everything off and then dinghied back to the dock to go to the local grocery store for other ships stores. So....once that was accomplished we took all back to Bees Knees....then grabbed our computers and dinghied in to shore to have a beer and get free WIFI!!
So....that's what we do all day!!!
Funny thing that happened here.....the first night that Lenny and his partner showed us to the mooring and offered the trip to Sari Sari.....we offered them a cold beer.....two Presidentes from the DR. Well....word got out and they came back later for two more beers. This time I offered a Presidente and a Carib....but their faces almost fell out of the boat....so I took the Carib back and gave them another Presidente! (They make Carib and Kabouli beer here on the island). So...we saw them a couple times today, saying good-bye and thank you.....and on the way in to get the WIFI I brought along 2 of my treasured Bass Ale (I had 5 left).
We saw them zooming by....waved them over and gave them the "good-bye present" and said Good-bye once again to the nice people of Dominica!
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