French horn in English Harbour
February 23, 2009
Monday
English Harbour, Antigua
Well....we left Green Island, Antigua and arrived in English Harbour a few hours later...just a little South and West....into one of the most crowded anchorages yet. We anchored just off the reef at the entrance to the harbour, right next to a very friendly French couple. The problem with English Harbour is that all the boats are pointing in different directions at the same time
and it's difficult, at best, to try to find a hole to anchor in...that provides swinging room. Plus there are moorings, boats anchored bow and stern and some boats with two bow anchors. What a mess. So.....at 0400 the next morning...we're awakened for some reason...and glance out and see a boat touching our neighbors portside....and we're anchored to his port!!!! So...it happens to be a German boat (pretty nice boat...Dantes) 
that attempts to anchor 5 times in the same spot, but keeps dragging. The funny thing is....everytime they'd set their anchor, they go below....maybe sleep for five minutes...then we'd wake them up with flashlites shining thru their portholes to advise them they're DRAGGING again!!! Well...the last time, they caught their anchor on our chain....so now we're running around the boat, starting the engine, have the spreader lights on.....they're feigning they don't speak English, although we heard them speaking English to each other. Another couple from "Audrey Paige" came over in their dinghy and helped them get their anchor off our chain....then they went away and anchored elsewhere. The next morning we saw their boat safely tied to a dock....but they did some damage to the French boat....and never came back to apologize or make amends!!!! You meet all kinds out here!!!
Jim and I kept busy in English Harbour. It seems like time really went by fast. We spent some time walking the docks and seeing the huge mega sailing yachts.
We went to a benefit BBQ for some children...one was the child of the captain that was murdered a little over a month ago....here in English Harbour. We took a hike one day up to Shirley Heights....huge cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and English and Falmouth Harbours.
Jim ran into a spiky bush and had to render first aid to himself.......
We saw several goats (the new dog) along the path...
but I think we really were on the goat path. We had a quick lunch at the top of the hike
...then proceeded back down the other side of the hill to the harbour.
Another day we hiked over to the fort and up the hill
....again seeing several goats and more goats.
The best day was the inaugural RORC 600 sailboat race. We decided to watch the start from the dinghy....did I mention that there were 10' swells???? It was a blast. We decided to wear our wet suits (dive suits)
...and it was perfect. We were trying to take pictures...got alot of the orange triangle marking the start!! There were three starts....the smaller boats first...then the megayachts....then the multihulls. Our favorite was Region Guadeloupe
....the trimaran....that was favored to win and came in first place...about 40 hours to cover 600 miles. The course was from Antigua to Barbuda to Nevis to Saba to St. Bart's around St. Martin, down to Guadeloupe and around the island...then back up to Barbuda....over to Redonda...then an upwind finish back to English Harbour in Antigua. We didn't see the trimaran finish, but we did see the second boat finish....a Farr 100, sponsored by ICAP, named Leopard. It was fun just watching....can't imagine how much fun to be crew or rail meat!
We spent an entire day provisioning the boat. We plan on leaving tomorrow for Guadeloupe and there may still be a strike going on there.....and no food available....so we decided to go fully provisioned and fueled up. We took the bus from English Harbour to St. John's for only 3.50 EC each...which is about $1.25 each....a great deal. When we got to St. John's we needed to take another bus to get to Wood's Mall....where the large grocery store is...the Epicurian. So...we waited for a little bit...then decided to walk....we were told it was only 7/8 of a mile...and a security guard pointed the direction to head. Well....we started out and kept walking and walking....then asked again....and they said "you can't walk there"....but then were given directions.....well....eventually we did find it and we did walk there. Not sure how far we went, but we made it. Just imagine....going grocery shopping....getting food for the next two weeks...and then carrying it all back in bags on your shoulders or in backpacks!!! We got on the bus just outside the store...and rode back to St. John's bus center. As I waited with all the bags....Jim ran over to the fresh market to get veges and fruits. So...now we have a few more bags. Well....we got on the bus....took up a few extra seats....but got back to English Harbour in one piece!! We loaded everything into the dinghy and motored back out to Bees Knees to put everything away. Then we went back into the dock to pick up our propane tank that we had filled...to check out with Customs and Immigration....and to pick up more beer and wine. So.....we're hobbling down the street....I have 12 bottles of wine in canvas bags on my shoulders and am carrying the full 10# propane tank and Jim was carrying a case of beer. Luckily we met up with some other cruisers who helped us by carrying the propane all the way back to the dinghy. WHEW!!
But....that's what we do all day!!!!
So....our stay in Antigua has come to an end. Tonight a French Horn is being played by someone as the sun is setting.....he's up in the fort....just across the harbour entrance
....I can see him with the binoculars. It's really a nice sound at sunset. I feel like we've seen as much as we could without living here full time. I really wanted to see English Harbour and the race was really a bonus....since I've always heard about Antigua and racing...just wanted to experience it. We've met up with some great cruisers that we'll continue to see downisland.....Audrey Paige and Strider. So...that's something to look forward to spending more time with them. Also we're trying to catch up with our friends on Dignity....they're in Dominica by now. Maybe we'll catch them in St. Lucia.
The other major event that's been taking place in Antigua is the elections....between the two parties, UPP and ALP. We happened to collect a couple of UPP flags during our walks...mostly in Jolly Harbour. There have been Jeeps or other vehicles parading the streets with loud speakers...either playing music or preaching about which party to vote for. They are either all red (ALP) or all blue (UPP). Riding back from the Epicurian grocery store on the local bus, the local radio was playing music, political party music....and a woman, that must have been 80-90 years old, was sitting across the aisle, dancing and singing to the music and smiling at me. They love politics! Also....to follow-up on the Obama election/inauguration, there are signs all over Antigua...."OBAMA for President of America"....plus the local snack bar in Nelson's Dockyard in English Harbour had this Obama ice cream.......
Well.....that's all for now....off to Guadeloupe in the AM!!
Monday
English Harbour, Antigua
Well....we left Green Island, Antigua and arrived in English Harbour a few hours later...just a little South and West....into one of the most crowded anchorages yet. We anchored just off the reef at the entrance to the harbour, right next to a very friendly French couple. The problem with English Harbour is that all the boats are pointing in different directions at the same time
and it's difficult, at best, to try to find a hole to anchor in...that provides swinging room. Plus there are moorings, boats anchored bow and stern and some boats with two bow anchors. What a mess. So.....at 0400 the next morning...we're awakened for some reason...and glance out and see a boat touching our neighbors portside....and we're anchored to his port!!!! So...it happens to be a German boat (pretty nice boat...Dantes) that attempts to anchor 5 times in the same spot, but keeps dragging. The funny thing is....everytime they'd set their anchor, they go below....maybe sleep for five minutes...then we'd wake them up with flashlites shining thru their portholes to advise them they're DRAGGING again!!! Well...the last time, they caught their anchor on our chain....so now we're running around the boat, starting the engine, have the spreader lights on.....they're feigning they don't speak English, although we heard them speaking English to each other. Another couple from "Audrey Paige" came over in their dinghy and helped them get their anchor off our chain....then they went away and anchored elsewhere. The next morning we saw their boat safely tied to a dock....but they did some damage to the French boat....and never came back to apologize or make amends!!!! You meet all kinds out here!!!Jim and I kept busy in English Harbour. It seems like time really went by fast. We spent some time walking the docks and seeing the huge mega sailing yachts.
We went to a benefit BBQ for some children...one was the child of the captain that was murdered a little over a month ago....here in English Harbour. We took a hike one day up to Shirley Heights....huge cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and English and Falmouth Harbours. Jim ran into a spiky bush and had to render first aid to himself.......We saw several goats (the new dog) along the path...
but I think we really were on the goat path. We had a quick lunch at the top of the hike...then proceeded back down the other side of the hill to the harbour. Another day we hiked over to the fort and up the hill....again seeing several goats and more goats.The best day was the inaugural RORC 600 sailboat race. We decided to watch the start from the dinghy....did I mention that there were 10' swells???? It was a blast. We decided to wear our wet suits (dive suits)
...and it was perfect. We were trying to take pictures...got alot of the orange triangle marking the start!! There were three starts....the smaller boats first...then the megayachts....then the multihulls. Our favorite was Region Guadeloupe....the trimaran....that was favored to win and came in first place...about 40 hours to cover 600 miles. The course was from Antigua to Barbuda to Nevis to Saba to St. Bart's around St. Martin, down to Guadeloupe and around the island...then back up to Barbuda....over to Redonda...then an upwind finish back to English Harbour in Antigua. We didn't see the trimaran finish, but we did see the second boat finish....a Farr 100, sponsored by ICAP, named Leopard. It was fun just watching....can't imagine how much fun to be crew or rail meat!We spent an entire day provisioning the boat. We plan on leaving tomorrow for Guadeloupe and there may still be a strike going on there.....and no food available....so we decided to go fully provisioned and fueled up. We took the bus from English Harbour to St. John's for only 3.50 EC each...which is about $1.25 each....a great deal. When we got to St. John's we needed to take another bus to get to Wood's Mall....where the large grocery store is...the Epicurian. So...we waited for a little bit...then decided to walk....we were told it was only 7/8 of a mile...and a security guard pointed the direction to head. Well....we started out and kept walking and walking....then asked again....and they said "you can't walk there"....but then were given directions.....well....eventually we did find it and we did walk there. Not sure how far we went, but we made it. Just imagine....going grocery shopping....getting food for the next two weeks...and then carrying it all back in bags on your shoulders or in backpacks!!! We got on the bus just outside the store...and rode back to St. John's bus center. As I waited with all the bags....Jim ran over to the fresh market to get veges and fruits. So...now we have a few more bags. Well....we got on the bus....took up a few extra seats....but got back to English Harbour in one piece!! We loaded everything into the dinghy and motored back out to Bees Knees to put everything away. Then we went back into the dock to pick up our propane tank that we had filled...to check out with Customs and Immigration....and to pick up more beer and wine. So.....we're hobbling down the street....I have 12 bottles of wine in canvas bags on my shoulders and am carrying the full 10# propane tank and Jim was carrying a case of beer. Luckily we met up with some other cruisers who helped us by carrying the propane all the way back to the dinghy. WHEW!!
But....that's what we do all day!!!!
So....our stay in Antigua has come to an end. Tonight a French Horn is being played by someone as the sun is setting.....he's up in the fort....just across the harbour entrance
....I can see him with the binoculars. It's really a nice sound at sunset. I feel like we've seen as much as we could without living here full time. I really wanted to see English Harbour and the race was really a bonus....since I've always heard about Antigua and racing...just wanted to experience it. We've met up with some great cruisers that we'll continue to see downisland.....Audrey Paige and Strider. So...that's something to look forward to spending more time with them. Also we're trying to catch up with our friends on Dignity....they're in Dominica by now. Maybe we'll catch them in St. Lucia.The other major event that's been taking place in Antigua is the elections....between the two parties, UPP and ALP. We happened to collect a couple of UPP flags during our walks...mostly in Jolly Harbour. There have been Jeeps or other vehicles parading the streets with loud speakers...either playing music or preaching about which party to vote for. They are either all red (ALP) or all blue (UPP). Riding back from the Epicurian grocery store on the local bus, the local radio was playing music, political party music....and a woman, that must have been 80-90 years old, was sitting across the aisle, dancing and singing to the music and smiling at me. They love politics! Also....to follow-up on the Obama election/inauguration, there are signs all over Antigua...."OBAMA for President of America"....plus the local snack bar in Nelson's Dockyard in English Harbour had this Obama ice cream.......
Well.....that's all for now....off to Guadeloupe in the AM!!
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