March 7, 2010
Samana, Dominican Republic
Santa Barbara
(Photos will have to come later.....we're in a restaurant and I really can't get all the pictures out today......stay tuned!)
Once again, I've been slacking in blog writing....sorry to anyone out there that really cares!!!! LOL!!
Seems like we've just been trying to get West....back to the Bahamas and the mainland of the USA....but in the meantime, we're stopping to have fun!
I'm really glad we stopped in St. Croix.....alot of people skip it along the way, but it's a nice place and I'd like to spend more time there someday.

We made it over to St. Thomas a day before Lauren, Jim's daughter, arrived by plane way back on January 28th. We took off for St. John's the next day....anchored in Caneel Bay.

We met Lauren's friend, Jess and her boyfriend, John, for drinks that evening after having a nice dinner on the water with a great singer at the restaurant.
The following day we headed to Francis Bay. We really wanted to head to Virgin Gorda since Lauren hadn't been....but the wind wasn't cooperating and we just hung in Francis Bay. We did go snorkeling on a great coral reef near Francis Bay...the most fish we've seen since the Bahamas!! It was great! We also went for a short walk with Jess as the guide, walking thru the Annaberg ruins and back.

The following day I swam to the beach and back....the weather was perfect! We had a nice sail back to St. Thomas on Monday.....and Lauren had to catch her flight in the late afternoon...soooo, it was brief, but nice.
That evening, in Druif Bay, or better known as Honeymoon Bay, on Water Island (part of St. Thomas) they have movies on the beach. It's a pretty cool set-up....a big screen and chairs set in the sand. We saw a funny movie that neither of us can remember the name, but it was a tour guided bus trip thru Greece and had Richard Dreyfuss in it.
The following day we provisioned, once again. We found great prices and duty-free on rum and wine. We also met up with a couple that we met last year in St. Martin, Tom and Pat on Lonestar. They left St. Martin and went to the Virgin Islands and ended up staying there for about a year. It's really kinda cool...they both found little jobs for fun and are part of the scene. Another boat that we met in Maine was there also! As we were anchoring at Water Island, Rio Luna, waved at us and complimented Jim on his recent articles published in All at Sea! He's famous! So...it's a small cruising community!
We left St. Thomas for Puerto Rico on Thursday, February 4th. It's a short sail, as you can actually see Puerto Rico from St. Thomas! We sailed into the little anchorage at the island just off the East coast, Culebrita.

We'd been there before and there's always a bit of a swell, but not bad. There is a beautiful beach with palm trees and no people. I swam to shore again and walked the long beach. Just relaxing!
On Saturday, 2/6/2010, we moved across the channel to Culebra, anchoring in the easternmost anchorage of Bahia de Almondover. This may be my new favorite anchorages of all times. It's protected by reefs and a few small islands that are bird sanctuaries.

The shoreline is outlined with mangroves and a few scattered homes. During the week it is nearly empty, except for the cruisers that have already discovered it! But on the weekends the locals enjoy their land and anchorages and zoom out in power boats, anchor and enjoy the weekend! The funny thing about the locals in Puerto Rico, we've noticed, is that they anchor backwards!

They all seem to raft up, but drop a bow anchor and back up next to another boat with their stern to the land or mangroves and swim or row a stern anchor out to hold them stern-to the wind. The first we saw this was in this little anchorage, but we've seen it several times since! This picture is just an example of how close they anchor (bow and stern to) near us.....as we hang on one chain and swing to the wind! They're close, but we never hit each other!
On Monday we motored over to Ensenada Dakity, Culebra, nearer the town to provision. Spent a few days there, then sailed back over to Bahia de Almondover....only about 2 miles away! On Thursday I decided to get to work....enough of all this fun and relaxation. The varnish on a couple of the toerails is failing....after three years in the hot Caribbean sun.....so I started to repair the forward port toerail. I used a heat gun to remove all the varnish, cleaned the wood and after it dried, sanded a bit then finally put on four coats of Schooner varnish over the next week. It looks good again....now just three more toerails to go! Then I'll just build up the coats of varnish as the weather permits.
On Friday, 2/13/2010, we had a great sail to Vieques, Puerto Rico. We were able to sail most of the way and it was beautiful! We anchored in Ensenada Honda....which is a huge bay, once again, surrounded by mangroves. We were anchored with two other sailboats and the party of powerboats, but huge distance between all of us. The party boats were there for the weekend and were water skiing, sailboarding, paddle boarding, and they all left on Monday.....one left in this cute little ultralight plane!

The star-watching at night was spectacular. Jim and I have been spending sunsets sitting on the bow and watching the first stars come out. Really nice!
On Tuesday we moved over to another harbor, Puerto Ferro....known for its phosphorescents. There was a bit that we could see at night......but still not as spectacular as what we saw in Cocoa Beach, FL, near Cape Canaveral!
We left the following day for Puerto Real. We don't have a guidebook for Puerto Rico.....we really didn't think we were coming back this way....so when we were in St. Martin last year we gave it to a British couple that were heading to the States. Sooooo.....we've been using our big paper chart for all the anchorages and harbors. Which seemed to work well until we arrived here in Puerto Real. There was a documented sandbar off the end of a little island, but it seemed to have grown all the way to the shore since our chart was published. We motored slowly.....I was at the helm and Jim was on the bow, "my eyes", and the depth kept slowly creeping up. We draft 5'6" and I saw 5'3"!!!!! Eeeeeeek! But we never felt a bump and we squeezed thru and anchored in a grassy bottom in about 10'. Later that day, when we went ashore in the dinghy, a local guy came up to us, pretty excited and talking fast, telling us we shouldn't anchor where we did because the fishing boats will come in at night and not expect us to be there! So.....after making a short stop at the local WIFI establishment and the grocery store, we lifted our anchor and moved just a little further East, nearer the shore.....no problem!
From this bay you can see the next bay, Sun Bay, that has a long beach in and is a local park.

So....off I went to walk the beach near sunset. The next day Jim and I snorkeled a bit, but not much going on.....not many fish....although we spotted alot of turtles from the boat feeding on the grassy bottom.
We left Vieques for the big island of Puerto Rico on Friday the 19th. Had another great sail downwind and easily navigated the channel into Salinas. It is a protected anchorage, once again surrounded by mangroves.

There were alot of boats anchored here....but still not as many as two years ago when we were coming thru heading East. We're starting to see fishing pots again as we sail.....but they aren't nearly as well marked as in Maine......the floats are usually empty plastic containers and black, blue or dark green. So....it's just pure luck that we don't hit everyone of them!
In Salinas we found WIFI at a little outdoor restaurant....where I had cheese sticks and Jim had lobster-filled empanadillas. My downfall is that I can't speak Spanish and also don't eat meat.....so I stick with things that I know won't have meat. But at least I got to taste the lobster delights!
On our way back to the boat, there was a little canvas shop that the woman was selling tomatoes on the side. We talked with her at length.....she was an ex-cruiser, ex-pat, that had started this canvas shop and they bought land that they farm. She also had this beautiful salmon-crested cockatoo in the shop. Her name was Zoe and she was a riot. She got her out of the cage and allowed us to hold her as Jim and I gave her "scratchies" on the back of her neck. She was beautiful. Before we left the woman told us to hang on....we had to see Zoe swing! I'm soooo sad I didn't have my camera with me. Zoe hung onto this long rope and the woman swung the rope back and forth. As the bird swung, she yelled "Wheeeee"! It was a riot! I can't get that picture out of my mind....and I laugh everytime I think of it!!!!!
On Saturday, 2/21/2010, we sailed to a little anchorage called "Gilligan's Island". We are starting at this point to get back into weather! It rained nearly all the time while in Salinas....and continued here. During a break in the wind and rain we walked this long deserted beach....that happens to be on the windward side of the island and is filled with junk! Once again found alot of single shoes, medicine bottles, plastic bottles....but no treasure

. The good news is that we were able to get free WIFI from the boat.....only in the evening....probably from a restaurant on shore. But that was a nice find!
On Wednesday, 2/24/2010, we sailed to LaParguera, PR. During the week in this little sleepy town....it's just that.....sleepy.

But it's a big hangout for the locals on the weekend....the town comes to life....businesses open and there are street vendors and music everywhere. Once again...the big find was WIFI from a local bar/restaurant.....able to get it from the boat after having a beer there one afternoon! The bad thing was that the local grocery store was closed down. Also....there was a local bar that was run by a guy from NY that we met two years ago....and that wasn't open either! We were expecting mail to be delivered to Boqueron, a near-by town, but too far to walk. So....we decided to rent a car on Friday. The Hertz rental car company sent a driver from Boqueron to pick us up and take us back to Boqueron to do the paperwork And....off we went. We were able to pick up our mail....getting all our tax forms and Jim's new computer battery! Then we took off for the infamous radio telescope that is near Arecibo. To make a real long story short......we were never able to see it.

We drove for hours and hours on unmarked roads, up and down and nearly over the edges, over potholes and thru them.....then finally found a highway and made it to the telescope site at 1620.....the guard told us they were closed....closed at 1600!!!!! We had been driving since about 1030 trying to get there!!!!! So.....we decided to take another route home along the NE coast of Puerto Rico....but it just happened to be Friday night rush hour....so it was mostly stop and go....as we searched for a grocery store to stock up....once again. We did find a Pueblo grocery store and sneaked in just before closing with our list in hand! When we got back to LaParguera....it was packed with people....and we parked along the road, taking any refrigerated items with us back to the dinghy and left the rest of the supplies in the car (hoping it would still be there in the AM!!!) We finally got back to Bees Knees about 2230 that night.
The next morning....we loaded the remaining of the groceries in the dinghy....and Jim drove the rental car back to Boqueron and was dropped off just as I was putting away the last of the groceries. What timing, huh? LOL!
We did discover a large frigate hang-out in a mangrove near our anchorage in LaParguera......we zoomed out and took a zillion pictures..

..the big red billowing under their chin is their mating sing in the males...pretty impressive!
On Sunday we decided to motor around the corner to Boqueron.....to stage for our departure further West. We were able to do laundry in Boqueron at a local hotel laundromat. Had a nice lunch and free WIFI at Galloway's....my first conch salad since the Bahamas two years ago! We met up with a friend of Jim's that he met in Venezuela at the marina....Butch and his girlfriend from Caracas on their boat "Tropic Bird". Again....a small cruising world.
The weather was forecasted for light winds but from the ESE....so we left Puerto Rico about 0830 on Tuesday, March 2, 2010. We decided not to head directly to the Bahamas....since the weather was going to deteriorate....with a front coming thru with NW winds. So....we had about a 30 hour window to make it to the Dominican Republic. We had never been to the DR.....sailed right by two years ago from Staniel Cay to Puerto Rico. We had an interesting sail....took off downwind, sailing wing on wing....then the wind died when we got away from the land and had to motor....then the wind came back more from the South...and we were able to sail...then the wind died. Well....you get the idea. We motored about 5-6 hours and sailed otherwise. We approached the shore of the DR at twilight and were able to do some whale watching. This is the time of year the humpback whales arrive and hang out to mate and have their baby whales! We definitely saw 4.....including one that breached....and one huge whale tail.....and a few questionable spouts! Really impressive! Jim heard something breathing behind us before it was light....he woke me up....and we saw two whales swimming along behind the boat! Then I went back to sleep!
The overnight watches are killers! We started 3 hour watches at noon.....Jim had the first three hours, then I had 1500-1800, etc. I have a Nano that Jim gave me....that I'm able to quietly listen to very loud music to keep me awake! But....I probably missed alot of whales following close by at night!!!
We arrived in Cayo Samana, Dominican Republic, on Wednesday, 3/3/2010 about 1130 in the AM. Within 20 minutes the DR officials arrived at Bees Knees. There were 5 guys, all in different outfits, only one official looking in camo gear and a gun, that came swiftly alongside and 4 of the guys came aboard while the other waited. There was an official from Ports and Intelligence, Coast Guard and Drugs and the interpreter. They were very efficient and friendly as we showed paperwork and opened up our home to them....opening a few cabinets. We offered them drinks....and shared a couple of Cokes and Presidente beers with them. We were told to then check in with Immigration on shore. They told us to take our time and meet them on the dock around 1500 (an hour after siesta). Then....about 1500 they came by the boat again, whistled for us to come on deck then told Jim they'd take him in and bring him back out.
This all was very interesting for me....the girl on board. None of the men had direct eye contact with me, nor would they talk to me....only Jim. It was OK that I offered drinks and got them for them...but that was it. When they were ready to leave, I went to get their line for their skiff off the cleat and they asked me to step away and they would get it!!! They never even asked me to go along to Immigration....imagine that!!!! But....I found it even more interesting on shore.....again there is very minimal eye contact with men. When salesmen or women talk, they talk to Jim only. I've never been in a culture quite like this.
Jim and I went to the local market yesterday AM......pretty wild. First of all, it's been raining daily and it was sooooo muddy and dirty on shore....we were stepping in mud puddles...they even had cardboard down at one point to cross a street over the slippery mud. The market is outside....they had piles of clothes, shoes, motorcycles...then the food. There was a card table that had some sort of red meat sitting there with two local dogs just sitting nearby. There were people walking around with chickens in bags as we were offered "pollo". There were tables of fish also...but we're still hoping to catch some! Then we found the fruits and veges and it was packed with fresh onions, shallots, potatoes, papaya, mangoes, cabbage, lettuce, limes, oranges and a zillion others. We filled our bags for $7 US....just amazing. On the way back to the dinghy we stopped by a little store for a case of Presidente beer for 1200 pesos, about $33 US. Luckily Jim speaks Spanish and is able to get us through....I'd still be standing there trying to figure it out!!!!
Yesterday afternoon we needed to make water.....I really didn't want to make it in the anchorage.....so....we had to get permission from the Commandante to move from this anchorage to a clear water anchorage nearby....3 nm away. So....we went to the office, where they use electric typewriters still, and got the paperwork to move for a few hours. When we returned we had to take the paper back to the Commandante.
It has been dreary and raining everyday....even cold! I actually put on a long-sleeved shirt! It was only 73 inside the boat yesterday....and it seems colder today....awakening to more rain! So....I made yogurt this AM and Jim is making bread. Surprising we still have our pet gecko onboard. Just hope she stays warm enough to make it to FL where we may pick up a gecko hot rock! She's eating alot of the local black flies....good pet! Just what we do all day.
We'll head out tomorrow.....the front should sit here or go further East...and our winds should be 10-15 from NE and switch around to SE 20K within 2 days. We hope to arrive in Great Inagua by Wednesday. I'll try to get some pictures of whales for the next blog....but they're pretty quick!
OK.....bye for now!